Serenading South Korea

How to capture the essence of this fascinating, complex nation? Social relations may be grounded in ancient Confucianism but South Korea is most decidedly a forward-thinking country thanks to its hurry-hurry approach to everything, an insatiable appetite for technological advancement and an indomitable can-do attitude. No one knows where the country is headed, but it’s fast-forward all the way. That’s what makes South Korea so exciting and at times unnerving; it’s a country of endless possibilities.

Seoul is where this is felt most keenly. There’s an infectious energy here and it’s easy to get caught up in the Korean joie de vivre, as well as the city's non-stop attractions. Less modern but no less appealing is the ancient city of Gyeongju, where temples, pagodas and royal tombs are a source of much fascination. Further south, the bustling port town of Busan is a little rough around the edges but rewards those travelers willing to persevere.

Few international travelers explore the countryside, which is a tragedy and a blessing. Serene Temples, picturesque mountains, lush rice paddies, unspoiled fishing villages and endless hiking opportunities are so far off the beaten track, it’s unlikely you’ll meet any Westerners (or even English speakers) on the road less travelled. Voyage to the remote, unspoilt islands of Dadohae Haesang National Park, or head to the charming backwater of Buyeo for its historic Baekje relics and lively covered market. For a somewhat less rural (and considerably more surreal) experience, there is Panmunjom & the DMZ Tour - the closest you can get to North Korea from its southern neighbour without being shot.

Come as an explorer, seek out adventure, cut your own trail. Challenge yourself and you may develop an appreciation for South Korea’s rich cultural tapestry and a newfound sense of personal freedom, the hallmarks of any truly great journey.


Weather
Korea has four very distinct seasons: spring from mid-March to the end of May; summer from June to August; autumn September to November; and winter from December to mid-March. Of course the actual weather doesn’t always fit these neat categories.

Temperatures vary hugely between midsummer and mid-winter, with August being very hot and sticky, while December and January are literally freezing. Winters in the north are colder than in the more southerly Busan or Jejudo. Heavy rainfall always arrives with the summer monsoon season (late June to mid-July).

When to go
Korea has four very distinct seasons, each with its own special character­istics. The best time of year to visit is autumn, from September to November, when skies are blue, the weather is usually sunny and warm and the forested mountainsides are ablaze with astonishing fall colours.

Spring, from April to June, is another beautiful season, with generally mild temperatures and cherry blossoms spreading north across the country in April. Camellias, azaleas and other plants and trees flower, but as with autumn, some days can be cold, so bring warm clothing.

Winter, from December to March, is dry but often bitterly cold, particularly in northern parts. Siberian winds drag January temperatures in most of the country (except Jejudo) to below zero. This is the time of year when you really appreciate ondol (underfloor heating) and oncheon (hot-spring spas) as well as the ubiquitous saunas and spicy soups. White snow on hanok (traditional house) roofs is very picturesque, and winter is the time for skiers, snowboarders or ice-skaters to visit.

Try to avoid peak summer, from late June to late August, which starts off with the monsoon season, when the country receives some 60% of its annual rainfall, and is followed by unpleasantly hot and humid weather. Although air-conditioning makes summers much more bearable these days, many locals flee the muggy cities for the mountains, beaches and islands, which become crowded, and accommodation prices double. There is also the chance of a typhoon or two.

Money & costs
South Korea is a developed country, but you can get by on a modest budget, although the ever-rising won (appreciating 10% a year against the US dollar) has been making the country more expensive for foreign visitors. Accommodation is always the main travel expense, and comfortable, en suite rooms cost around W30,000 (approximately US$33) in smart new motels or W5000 less in older-style yeogwan (motel). Top-end hotels are rare outside major cities, but their rack rates are generally heavily discounted to around W200,000 to W250,000. Midrange hotels are being squeezed by the new high-rise motels, and their normal W150,000 rates are sometimes discounted below W100,000.

Transport, Korean meals, alcohol, saunas and admission prices to sights and national parks are still relatively cheap, so careful-spending duos travelling around South Korea can manage on W70,000 a day, while W100,000 a day allows for some luxuries – classier rooms, more taxi rides and bulgogi (sliced beef) instead of samgyeopsal (sliced fatty pork). The ultra-thrifty could hope to reduce their costs to W50, 000 a day by staying in youth-hostel dormitories or rather grotty rooms, taking advantage of hospitable locals they meet, and living on a diet of gimbap (rice rolled in dried seaweed), bibimbap (vegetables, meat and rice) and ramyeon (instant noodles). Staying in Seoul is cheaper than touring the country. Splashing out on luxury hotels, top-class meals and duty-free shops ups the budget to W400,000 a day or more.

Money
The South Korean unit of currency is the won (W), which comes in W10, W50, W100 and W500 coins. Notes come in denominations of W1000, W5000 and W10,000. The highest-value note was worth about US$10 at the time of research, so be prepared to carry around a thick wad of notes. Banks in most high streets offer foreign exchange services (look for a ‘Foreign Exchange’ or currency sign), although changing money can take some time.

Tourist shops and hotels exchange money, but compare their rates and commissions with the banks before using their services. US dollars are the easiest to exchange but any major currency is accepted. Travellers cheques have a slightly better exchange rate than cash.

Don’t forget to reconvert any surplus won into another currency before you leave the country, as exchanging won outside Korea can be difficult or impossible. If you reconvert more than US$2000 worth of won at Incheon airport, you will have to show bank receipts to prove that you exchanged the money legally.

ATMs
Korean ATMs are a little strange. If you have a foreign credit card, you need to find an ATM with a ‘Global’ sign or the logo of your credit card company. NICE ATMs often accept foreign cards. Most Global ATMs have basic instructions in English and operate in units of W10,000.

ATMs can be found outside banks and post offices and inside deluxe hotels, subway stations and department stores. Restrictions on the amount of money you can withdraw vary from machine to machine; it can be below W300,000 per day, but many ATMs have a W700,000 limit. Another problem is that ATMs have time restrictions and most only operate between 9am and 10pm. If you can’t find one, Itaewon subway station (Line 6) has a Global ATM that has instructions in English, is open 24 hours and has a withdrawal limit of W300,000.

Credit cards
More and more motels, hotels, shops and restaurants in cities and tourist areas accept foreign credit cards, but there are still plenty of yeogwan, restaurants and small businesses that don’t. Be prepared to carry around plenty of cash, especially if you are touring around outside the main cities.