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Thursday, December 3, 2009

A Journey through Time in Seville’s Jewish Quarter

Wander the narrow, whitewashed alleys and let the history wash over you.

Five hundred years have passed in this southern Spanish city since the descendants of Abraham worshiped in the synagogues here but the area still bears their name. The Juderia, with its narrow, whitewashed alleys, tiled patios and homey outdoor cafes, has become one of the premier tourist attractions in all of Spain. No wonder. The Old Jewish Quarter throbs with history and with life.

If the ancient stone walls surrounding the quarter could speak, they would tell of the Arab conquest of Spain in 711 AD., of the 500 years of Moorish civilization until the Christian reconquest in the 13thcentury.

They would tell of Moses Maimonides, the renowned Jewish philosopher who walked these streets as did the Spanish artist, Murillo and the American author, Washington Irving who made his home here. They would point to the 16 th century convent built by the Christian mystic, St.Teresa of Avila and to the Church of St.Maria de Blanca, which now occupies one of the four main synagogues which once stood in the quarter. And, of course, they would tell of King Ferdinand’s and Queen Isabella’s shameful edict of 1492, banishing from Spain all Jews who would not convert to Christianity.

The Jewish Quarter of Seville, at one time, was entirely enclosed by the same massive walls as seen today. The gates were locked at night, allegedly for the Jew’s protection. One will notice the names of the streets as you meander through the quarter.
A pious Christian legend has it that Pimientia (Pepper Street) got its name from a pious Jewish spice merchant looking for a source of pepper. A Christian acquaintance told him to pray to Jesus. He did and a pepper tree grew there overnight.


Naturally, as the story goes, the Jewish merchant converted. Susona Street is named after a Jewish maiden who fell in love with a Gentile just prior to the Inquisition. Susona’s father was secretly involved in making plans to head off the Inquisition.


Susona told her lover about them and, as a result, many Jews lost their lives. Susona Street became the “street of death.” A skull and inscription to that effect is written on the wall above the street name.

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