LA ROCHELLE is the most attractive and unspoilt seaside town in France. Thanks to the foresight of 1970s mayor Michel Crépeau, its historic seventeenth- to eighteenth-century centre and waterfront were plucked from the clutches of the developers and its streets freed of traffic for the delectation of pedestrians. A real shock-horror outrage at the time, the policy has become standard practice for preserving old town centres across the country – more successful than Crépeau's picturesque yellow bicycle plan, designed to relieve the traffic problem.
La Rochelle has a long history, as you would expect of such a sheltered Atlantic port. Eleanor of Aquitaine gave it a charter in 1199, which released it from its feudal obligations, and it rapidly became a port of major importance, trading in salt and wine and skilfully exploiting the Anglo-French quarrels. The Wars of Religion, however, were particularly destructive for La Rochelle. It turned Protestant and, because of its strategic importance, drew the remorseless enmity of Cardinal Richelieu, who laid siege to it in 1627. To the dismay of the townspeople, who reasoned that no one could effectively blockade seasoned mariners like themselves, he succeeded in sealing the harbour approaches with a dyke. The English dispatched the Duke of Buckingham to their aid, but he was caught napping on the Île de Ré and badly defeated. By the end of 1628 Richelieu had starved the city into submission. Out of the pre-siege population of 28,000, only 5000 survived. The walls were demolished and the city's privileges revoked. La Rochelle later became the principal port for trade with the French colonies in the Caribbean Antilles and Canada. Indeed, many of the settlers, especially in Canada, came from this part of France.
Since the 12th century, La Rochelle has been a place of liberties and free custom, a gateway to the New World and a centre of religious struggle. Today, the city is as inspiring as ever with its pioneering environmental commitment to urban ecology.
WHERE WOULD YOU MEET FRIENDS FOR A DRINK?
For late afternoon drinks, the terrace of the Café du Nord (quai du Gabut; 4641 1939), overlooking the harbour, medieval towers and lighthouse. At night, a wander down rue St Nicolas, leads to the Cave de la Guignette. A scruffy but buzzing bar, it retains traces of its previous life as a depot for sailors to stock up on booze. The house fruit wine either sets you up for the night or finishes you off.
WHERE ARE THE FAVOURITE PLACES FOR LUNCH?
Seafood is outstanding throughout the city, but the independent restaurants surrounding the market are the friendliest. Le Jardin Salon de Thé on rue de Gargoulleau (4641 0642) is great for tartes and salads and the richest hot chocolate. Le Soleil Brille Pour Tout Le Monde (rue des Cloutiers 13; 4641 1142) serves delicious home-cooked dishes and naughty calorie-laden puddings.
AND FOR DINNER?
Hiring one of the city's electric cars, head to the beach of Châtelaillon, with its fantastical beachfront homes, casino and promenade, for pancakes at Les Bains des Fleurs (boulevard de la Mer 76; 4656 0058). Or venture a little farther to Port des Boucholeurs for fresh fish or pizzas at Mirko al Mare (4656 0606)
WHERE SHOULD FIRST-TIME VISITOR GO?
To the new Port des Minimes, hop on an electric passenger shuttle boat and enter the harbour through the twin towers in zero-emission 21st-century style.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR TAXI?
La Rochelle is a successful eco-town, with electric cars, boats and buses. Yélo bicycles can also be rented from 25 self-service sites in the city.
HANDBAG OR MONEY BELT?
The city is safe, but handbags are a necessary accessory to keep up with the fashionistas of La Rochelle.
WHAT SHOULD YOU TAKE HOME?
Pineau des Charentes, a local fortified wine made from a Cognac/grape blend, and Ile de Ré sea salt, harvested from the marshes on the nearby island of Ré.
AND IF THERE'S ONLY TIME FOR ONE SHOP?
To the rue St Nicolas to Au Fur et à Mesure (rue St Nicolas 15; which sells an eclectic mix of fabrics, clothes and decorative objects, and the Librairie Gréfine for children's picture books and specialist art books (rue St Nicolas 57; 4641 4685).
La Rochelle has a long history, as you would expect of such a sheltered Atlantic port. Eleanor of Aquitaine gave it a charter in 1199, which released it from its feudal obligations, and it rapidly became a port of major importance, trading in salt and wine and skilfully exploiting the Anglo-French quarrels. The Wars of Religion, however, were particularly destructive for La Rochelle. It turned Protestant and, because of its strategic importance, drew the remorseless enmity of Cardinal Richelieu, who laid siege to it in 1627. To the dismay of the townspeople, who reasoned that no one could effectively blockade seasoned mariners like themselves, he succeeded in sealing the harbour approaches with a dyke. The English dispatched the Duke of Buckingham to their aid, but he was caught napping on the Île de Ré and badly defeated. By the end of 1628 Richelieu had starved the city into submission. Out of the pre-siege population of 28,000, only 5000 survived. The walls were demolished and the city's privileges revoked. La Rochelle later became the principal port for trade with the French colonies in the Caribbean Antilles and Canada. Indeed, many of the settlers, especially in Canada, came from this part of France.
Since the 12th century, La Rochelle has been a place of liberties and free custom, a gateway to the New World and a centre of religious struggle. Today, the city is as inspiring as ever with its pioneering environmental commitment to urban ecology.
WHERE WOULD YOU MEET FRIENDS FOR A DRINK?
For late afternoon drinks, the terrace of the Café du Nord (quai du Gabut; 4641 1939), overlooking the harbour, medieval towers and lighthouse. At night, a wander down rue St Nicolas, leads to the Cave de la Guignette. A scruffy but buzzing bar, it retains traces of its previous life as a depot for sailors to stock up on booze. The house fruit wine either sets you up for the night or finishes you off.
WHERE ARE THE FAVOURITE PLACES FOR LUNCH?
Seafood is outstanding throughout the city, but the independent restaurants surrounding the market are the friendliest. Le Jardin Salon de Thé on rue de Gargoulleau (4641 0642) is great for tartes and salads and the richest hot chocolate. Le Soleil Brille Pour Tout Le Monde (rue des Cloutiers 13; 4641 1142) serves delicious home-cooked dishes and naughty calorie-laden puddings.
AND FOR DINNER?
Hiring one of the city's electric cars, head to the beach of Châtelaillon, with its fantastical beachfront homes, casino and promenade, for pancakes at Les Bains des Fleurs (boulevard de la Mer 76; 4656 0058). Or venture a little farther to Port des Boucholeurs for fresh fish or pizzas at Mirko al Mare (4656 0606)
WHERE SHOULD FIRST-TIME VISITOR GO?
To the new Port des Minimes, hop on an electric passenger shuttle boat and enter the harbour through the twin towers in zero-emission 21st-century style.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR TAXI?
La Rochelle is a successful eco-town, with electric cars, boats and buses. Yélo bicycles can also be rented from 25 self-service sites in the city.
HANDBAG OR MONEY BELT?
The city is safe, but handbags are a necessary accessory to keep up with the fashionistas of La Rochelle.
WHAT SHOULD YOU TAKE HOME?
Pineau des Charentes, a local fortified wine made from a Cognac/grape blend, and Ile de Ré sea salt, harvested from the marshes on the nearby island of Ré.
AND IF THERE'S ONLY TIME FOR ONE SHOP?
To the rue St Nicolas to Au Fur et à Mesure (rue St Nicolas 15; which sells an eclectic mix of fabrics, clothes and decorative objects, and the Librairie Gréfine for children's picture books and specialist art books (rue St Nicolas 57; 4641 4685).
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