Discovering Tahiti & French Polynesia

Better known by the name of its main island, Tahiti, French Polynesia is a mesmerising wonderland of reef-fringed islands and translucent aqua lagoons. Shamelessly chic and seductive, it's the kind of place where the rich and famous come to play and hedonistic honeymoon fantasies are realised. The epitome of the Pacific dream, this is one Garden of Eden so damn beautiful it's hard to believe it really exists.

French Polynesia is more than just some souped up, sexy honeymoon destination, however. Those seeking something stronger than a pina colada in the sand will find salvation never more than a boat ride away. Adventures are plentiful in these archipelagos scattered over an area as big as Europe.

Take an old school pirate romp through the mysterious and danger-tinged Tuamotu Islands, where the breathtaking turquoise sea is home not only to flawless black pearls, but also hundreds of toothy sharks. Travel to the ends of the earth, destination Austral Islands, a place so remote centuries slide by without anyone batting an eye.

Check out the Gambier Archipelago: an armchair destination for most, it's also a must for wannabe National Geographic explorers. Those searching for a little less swashbuckling and a lot more room service will delight in Bora Bora's luxurious pampering and lush good looks; in Maupiti's picture-perfect views and old-fashioned French hospitality.

The truth is, whether you've secretly fantasised about splitting coconuts with your bare hands in a Rambo meetsRobinson Crusoe scenario or daydreamed about playing heroine in a mushy Hollywood movie, French Polynesia tempts you to dream your wildest of fantasies right into punch-drunk reality.
French Polynesia comprises five main island groups - the Society Islands, the Tuamotus, the Marquesas, the Australs and the Gambier Archipelago. Tahiti is in the Society Islands.

Money & costs
Costs
French Polynesia is expensive by anyone's standards and travel costs are some of the highest in the world. Flights alone tend to be a substantial cost, but once you arrive you may be shocked to find even the cheapest meal, bought from a vendor off the street, will set you back around 1200 CFP.

Backpackers who cook all their own meals and stay in the cheapest rooms possible can skimp by on around 10,000 CFP per day. Midrange travellers, looking for more comfortable beds and wanting to take in a few restaurant meals and perhaps an organised excursion, can count on paying around 20,000 CFP per day. Top-end visitors will find the sky is the limit when it comes to posh lodging and dining options and watery excursions.

Over-water bungalows start at around US$500 per night, and a stay on a private island can cost as much as US$10,000! To score the best deals, try to book in advance. If you're travelling with the kids, many places offer half-price discounts for children under the age of 12.

Taxation is another bugbear here: a TVA (taxe sur la valeur ajoutée; value-added tax), which was introduced in 1998, currently adds 6% to your hotel bill (and that's not including the 5% government tax and the taxe de séjour, accommodation tax or daily tax, which top off the bill). We've included all taxes in our listed prices.

Money
The unit of currency in French Polynesia is the Cour de Franc Pacifique (CFP), referred to simply as 'the franc'. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 CFP, and notes of 500, 1000, 5000 and 10, 000 CFP. The CFP was pegged to the French franc, and so is now pegged to the euro.

There are fairly hefty bank charges for changing money and travellers cheques in French Polynesia. You generally pay at least 500 CFP commission on travellers cheques and to exchange cash, although exchange rates do vary from bank to bank, so if you have time, shop around to find the best rate.

Given the cost of living in French Polynesia, and the low crime rate, you are better off exchanging larger sums of money (ie, fewer transactions) than smaller amounts. Rates offered on Tahiti tend to be better than those offered on the other islands.

The unit of currency in French Polynesia is the franc cours pacifique (CFP), referred to simply as 'the franc'. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 CFP, and notes of 500, 1000, 5000 and 10, 000 CFP. The CFP was pegged to the French franc, and so is now pegged to the euro.

There are fairly hefty bank charges for changing money and travellers cheques in French Polynesia. You generally pay at least a 500 CFP commission on travellers cheques and to exchange cash, although exchange rates do vary from bank to bank; if you have time, shop around to find the best rate.

Given the cost of living in French Polynesia, and the low crime rate, you are better off exchanging larger sums of money (ie making fewer transactions) than smaller amounts. Rates offered on Tahiti tend to be better than those offered on the other islands.


Climate & when to go
The dry winter period from May to October is the best time to visit; the weather is cooler and there is much less rainfall. Temperatures rise during the November to April summer rainy season when it's humid, cloudy and very wet. Three-quarters of the annual rainfall occurs during this period, generally in the form of brief, violent storms, although torrential rains lasting several days are not uncommon.
French Polynesia is south of the equator, but school holidays fall in line with those of the northern hemisphere.

This means the peak season is July and August, and during this period it's no mean feat getting flights and accommodation. Christmas to early January, late February and early March, the Easter period, early May and early October are also quite busy times. The peak July-August season coincides with the Heiva festival, held throughout July, when the region comes to life.

Diving is popular year-round, and each season brings its share of discoveries. Surfing is also a year-round activity, but if you are sailing, it's best if you avoid the November to March tropical depressions. Walking is best in the dry season, as some of the trails are simply impassable when it's wet.