As one gaze upward at the four colossal statues of an ominous pharaoh, the words of English poet Percy Shelley echo in their mind: “My name is Ozymandius, King of Kings. Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!” Abu Simbel’s temples didn’t inspire Shelley to pen his poem about Ramses II - it was a toppled statue in Thebes - but they easily could have if he’d seen these imposing works.
This same mighty pharaoh carved the two immense temples out of rock in Egypt’s southernmost frontier 3,250 years ago, creating something so impressive that even today it epitomizes the greatness of ancient Egypt.
Most visitors catch their first glimpse of these two temples as their airplane dips towards the runway at the end of the 280-kilometre flight from Aswan. Even from this bird’s eye view, these temples - the Great Temple of Abu Simbel and the Temple of Hathor - are enough to make even jaded tomb raiders gasp.
Still, nothing compares to standing before them. Two pairs of 20-metre high statues of an enthroned Ramses II flank the entrance to the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, their stone visages gazing serenely across the Nubian landscape and beyond Lake Nasser’s lapping waters. The lake didn’t exist when these temples were originally carved into the mountain - it’s the 20th century by-product of damming the Nile at Aswan.
Abu Simbel’s temples are also newcomers. The original location of these treasures lies 200 meters south and 63 meters underwater. When rising waters threatened Abu Simbel in the 1960s, UNESCO co-coordinated a rescue effort. The temples were cut into 1,423 blocks, removed and reassembled on higher - and drier - land.
Most visitors catch their first glimpse of these two temples as their airplane dips towards the runway at the end of the 280-kilometre flight from Aswan. Even from this bird’s eye view, these temples - the Great Temple of Abu Simbel and the Temple of Hathor - are enough to make even jaded tomb raiders gasp.
Still, nothing compares to standing before them. Two pairs of 20-metre high statues of an enthroned Ramses II flank the entrance to the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, their stone visages gazing serenely across the Nubian landscape and beyond Lake Nasser’s lapping waters. The lake didn’t exist when these temples were originally carved into the mountain - it’s the 20th century by-product of damming the Nile at Aswan.
Abu Simbel’s temples are also newcomers. The original location of these treasures lies 200 meters south and 63 meters underwater. When rising waters threatened Abu Simbel in the 1960s, UNESCO co-coordinated a rescue effort. The temples were cut into 1,423 blocks, removed and reassembled on higher - and drier - land.
These temples aimed to impress neighboring Nubians of Egypt’s power and glory, and the strength of an egoistic pharaoh who demanded respect. Ramses II clearly dominates the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, even though this structure is dedicated to the sun god Ra-Harakhte.
Images deeply carved in the inside walls portray Ramses II first as a great king and victorious warrior, then as a servant to the gods, and finally, in the inner sanctuary, as a deity. This sanctuary is where four godly statues - including a deified Ramses II - await the “miracle of the sun.”
This ‘miracle’ would see the first rays of dawn strike the sanctuary on February 21, the pharaoh’s birthday, and October 21, his coronation date - briefly illuminating the godly statues save one: Ptah, god of darkness.
Images deeply carved in the inside walls portray Ramses II first as a great king and victorious warrior, then as a servant to the gods, and finally, in the inner sanctuary, as a deity. This sanctuary is where four godly statues - including a deified Ramses II - await the “miracle of the sun.”
This ‘miracle’ would see the first rays of dawn strike the sanctuary on February 21, the pharaoh’s birthday, and October 21, his coronation date - briefly illuminating the godly statues save one: Ptah, god of darkness.
This astronomical precision crafted by the ancient Egyptians was something even modern technology couldn’t mimic. When the temple was relocated, the timing of these solar feats was thrown off by a day. The nearby Temple of Hathor was also built by Ramses II to honor Hathor, the goddess of love and music, and his Nubian wife Nefertari.
Even though Ramses II built this temple for his first and favorite wife, his image dominates its pylon-shaped façade. Of the six statues guarding the entrance to this temple, only two are Nefertari; the other four are Ramses II himself.
Nefertari’s beauty as a deified queen shines through, however. The images carved within her temple walls are more beautiful and creative than the militaristic battle scenes and stoic depictions in her husband’s dominating temple.
The highlight of Abu Simbel comes after sunset when the temples become a cinematic backdrop for an awe-inspiring sound and light show.
The mountain face becomes a giant projection screen as the story of Abu Simbel unfolds, recounting everything from the first stones laid by ancient Egyptians to the ambitious relocation three millennia later. Near the end, vivid images cast onto these sand-scrubbed temples eerily transform Abu Simbel into its ancient splendor, awarding modern-day visitors with a taste of the grandeur created by one of Egypt’s greatest pharaohs.
The spell of greatness Ramses II cast over ancient Egypt still lingers in Abu Simbel, where even beyond the grave his legacy still has the power to bewitch visitors in his enchanting grip.
Getting To Abu Simbel, Egypt Visitors can reach Abu Simbel by airplane from Cairo or Aswan in one of the daily charters, or by boat through a three-day cruise along Lake Nasser from Aswan. Entry fees include a guide. Student discounts are available.
Those interested in the sound and light show should either take a cruise or make independent travel arrangements and spend a night in one of Abu Simbel’s three hotels.
Even though Ramses II built this temple for his first and favorite wife, his image dominates its pylon-shaped façade. Of the six statues guarding the entrance to this temple, only two are Nefertari; the other four are Ramses II himself.
Nefertari’s beauty as a deified queen shines through, however. The images carved within her temple walls are more beautiful and creative than the militaristic battle scenes and stoic depictions in her husband’s dominating temple.
The highlight of Abu Simbel comes after sunset when the temples become a cinematic backdrop for an awe-inspiring sound and light show.
The mountain face becomes a giant projection screen as the story of Abu Simbel unfolds, recounting everything from the first stones laid by ancient Egyptians to the ambitious relocation three millennia later. Near the end, vivid images cast onto these sand-scrubbed temples eerily transform Abu Simbel into its ancient splendor, awarding modern-day visitors with a taste of the grandeur created by one of Egypt’s greatest pharaohs.
The spell of greatness Ramses II cast over ancient Egypt still lingers in Abu Simbel, where even beyond the grave his legacy still has the power to bewitch visitors in his enchanting grip.
Getting To Abu Simbel, Egypt Visitors can reach Abu Simbel by airplane from Cairo or Aswan in one of the daily charters, or by boat through a three-day cruise along Lake Nasser from Aswan. Entry fees include a guide. Student discounts are available.
Those interested in the sound and light show should either take a cruise or make independent travel arrangements and spend a night in one of Abu Simbel’s three hotels.
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