Tourism Around The World And Its Wonders

The world’s coldest places

2009-12-29T04:42:00.000-08:00

As Europe freezes and snowstorms blanket the US East Coast, remember, it could always be worse…

Vostok Station, Antarctica Located near the South Geomagnetic Pole, and at the lofty height of around 3500m above sea level, the Russian research station at Vostok is perpetually cold, but never more so than on 21 July, 1983, when it registered the coldest recorded temperature on the planet: –89.2°C (–128.6°F). The key geographic feature around Vostok is Lake Vostok, one of the world’s largest lakes, buried beneath around 4km of glacial ice and itself colder than all other lakes on earth. With the enormous ice mass above, the lake remains unfrozen at around –3°C.

Eureka, Canada This Arctic weather station has been called the world’s coldest inhabited place. The Eureka research base on Canada’s far-northern Ellesmere Island, which straddles the 80th parallel, was created as a weather station in 1947 and boasts an average annual temperature of around –20°C. In winter it’s about 20°C cooler still. For visitors to Eureka, the low temperatures are matched only by the high price of getting here. To add this chilly nowhere land to your travelling resumé you need to fly in from Resolute – factor on about US$20,000 for the airfare.

Oymyakon, RussiaIt seems only fitting that a place with a reputation as ferocious as Russia’s Far East (commonly mistaken for ‘Siberia’) should also claim the dubious honour of recording the northern hemisphere’s coldest temperature. In the republic of Yakutia, around 350km south of the Arctic Circle, the village of Oymyakon slipped to the numbing frostiness of –71.2°C (–96.1°F) in 1926, an event that seems to be remembered with unusual fondness, given that a plaque in the village commemorates the occasion. Expect a long day of rugged driving from Yakutsk, around 800km to the west, if you plan to pay homage to this mercury marvel.

Denali, Alaska, USA. In the alpine world, frostbitingly cold conditions are a fact of life, yet one mountain stands above all others as the most arctic on the planet. Denali, or Mt McKinley, the highest peak in North America, has long been considered the coldest mountain on earth, with winter temperatures plunging to around –40°C (–40°F). To experience the full frostiness of this Alaskan peak you must be a mountaineer – the 6194m mountain is mostly climbed by the West Buttress – but you can ponder it from slightly warmer locales with a visit or backpacking trip through Denali National Park.

Ulaanbaatar, MongoliaPerched on the Mongolian steppe, around 1300m above sea level, Ulaanbaatar has been called the world’s coldest capital city, and it does indeed pack a winter punch: in January the average maximum temperature in the city is a frigid –16°C (3°F). But with the city’s rush towards modernisation in recent years, there are more and more ways to escape the Ulaanbaatar chill. You can warm your digits and your mind inside the city’s impressive collection of museums – be it a camel museum or a museum about political persecution – or seek out the body heat of 500 monks in Gandantegchinlen Khiid, Mongolia’s largest monastery.

Best things to do in 2010!!!

2009-12-10T02:17:00.000-08:00

Rest up while you can, dear travellers, because 2010 is going to be an action-packed year!

Total eclipse from Easter Island
Sunday 11 July (thanks, valemax) will see a total eclipse of the sun, visible from a corridor that traverses the southern Pacific Ocean. About half-way through, it’ll cross over one of the world’s most extraordinary and isolated places, Easter Island. This will be the best possible place to observe the eclipse, with the darkened sun lingering above the northwestern horizon. It’s hard to beat the combination of a shadowed sun, a Polynesian island, and 887 ancient monumental statues (moai).

Peking to Paris Motor Race
The 2010 Peking to Paris Motor Challenge is a Wacky Races–style adventure, featuring classic cars rattling across the Old Silk Route. It starts in Peking on September 11th, passes the Great Wall of China, then crosses Mongolia and the Gobi Desert, all the ,‘stans, Iran, Turkey, Greece and Italy before finishing up in Paris. Most participants drive vintage cars, many of which are pre-1922. The first race took place in 1907, the second in 1997: this will be just the fourth edition. Suspension and sockets permitting, they should cover the distance (14,119 km) in around five weeks.

FIFA World Cup, South Africa
No other event has such power to capture the international imagination, and in 2010 the FIFA World Cup is coming to Africa. South Africa’s premier soccer venue is the FNB Stadium (Soccer City), in Johannesburg, which has been enlarged to 94,700 seating capacity for 2010. FIFA was rumoured to have a ‘plan B’ for the World Cup, amid concerns about South Africa’s facilities and security. However, it seems to be going full steam ahead, so let’s hear it for plan A!

Burning Man Festival, Nevada, USA
Vast, flat and edged by bony hills, the desert setting of Nevada’s Burning Man festival is perfect for ‘did-I-really-see-that’ mirages. For seven magical summer days, strange shapes dot the desert – evidence of what happens if you let your imagination run wild in the hot sun. There are no spectators here: everyone’s a participant. Nor is it about commerce; the only things for sale are coffee and ice. Fancy turning your car into a giant spider? Painting yourself blue? Burning Man is calling you.

Camino de Santiago pilgramage, Spain
It’s a Holy Year in 2010, which means it’s high time for a Christian pilgrimage. Our pick is the journey to Santiago in Spain, where the apostle Saint James is buried. You can take any route but the most popular is the Camino Francés (French Way), from Roncesvalles, around 800km away. Get a Pilgrim’s Passport from a local church or tourist office, so you can have it stamped en route.

Commonwealth Games, Delhi, India
Delhi has been made over in anticipation of the Commonwealth Games, which include sports ranging from synchronised swimming to shooting. The games put this vibrant, chaotic capital in the global spotlight, and the last few years have seen Delhi streamlined (as far as the unruly city can be) with a flurry of new infrastructure, including a new metro system and a flashy games village. The airport has been expanded, there are new roads, overhauled stadia, and lots of new homestays and hotels. There’s rarely been a better time to visit.

Vancouver Winter Olympics, Canada
From 12th to 28th February, the Winter Olympics will be doing their chilly thing in Vancouver, while the slopes of Whistler, 120km north, will host the skiing and sledging events. This icy extravaganza encompasses an incredible 86 sports, including the obvious (skiing, ice hockey and figure skating), and the obscure (curling, anyone?). Be there, if only to see how they’ll try to top the Beijing Olympics opening celebrations.

Pushkar Camel Fair, India

As the morning light sharpens, the scene near Pushkar, a tiny pilgrimage town in the Thar Desert of Rajasthan, comes into focus. Hundreds of camels and their owners’ camps fill the desert scrub. One of India’s most spectacular festivals (18th to 21st November, 2010), the camel fair began as a sideshow of the Katrik Purnima, before becoming an attraction in its own right. The noise is remarkable, an unearthly chorus of camel snorts, fairground rides, people and distorted sound systems. Colour and chaos prevail: camels, horses, tribal people, tourists and film crews all play their parts in creating the scene. Plus, if you’re in the market for a camel, this is where to head.

World Expo, 2010, Shanghai, China

Shanghai is hosting the next World Expo in 2010 (1st May to 31st October), a chance for the city to trump Beijing’s 2008 Olympics. Expos have been part of the international convention scene since the UK’s Grand Exhibition in 1851, and 70million visitors are expected to visit this one. The huge site straddles the Yamuna river – more than 18,000 households were rehoused to make way. Each of the 200 participating countries are pulling out all the stops: Copenhagen are even flying out their iconic Little Mermaid statue for the duration.

Maximum fun, minimum money: Hong Kong’s best freebies

2009-12-10T02:00:00.000-08:00

Hong Kong is not a cheap place, but with a bit of planning you can spend a day in the city and spend very little money.

Start the day with a free t’ai chi lesson, taking in views of the Hong Kong Island skyline, courtesy of the Hong Kong Tourist Board.

If it’s a Wednesday, you’re entitled to free entry at six of Hong Kong’s best museums: Hong Kong Heritage Museum, Hong Kong Museum of Art, Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence, Hong Kong Museum of History, Hong Kong Science Museum and Hong Kong Space Museum, excluding the Space Theatre.
After all that museum madness, you’ll be needing a sit down. Make lunch your main meal of the day for the ideal combination of most calories, highest quality and lowest price. Dai pai dong’s (street stalls) and food courts are your best bet for a relatively inexpensive feed.

After lunch, head to one of Hong Kong’s shopping malls for a bit of free air-con and wi-fi. If you don’t have a laptop, you can catch up on your email by using a free library internet terminal.

If you need to cool off and can’t afford the entry to Ocean Park, take your own white-knuckle ride on the top deck of the bus to Shek O for some free and secluded beach action.

In the evening, hit the bars during happy ‘hour’ drinks and you might also score some free nibbles. Still hungry? Then grab some $20 Tak Fat beef balls at this famous Tsim Sha Tsui dai pai dong, before putting your haggling face on and heading to the Temple Street Night Market for some inexpensive memorabilia, kitsch and crafts.

Other freebies and bargains to look out for include:

Bank of China: panoramic island views from the 43rd-floor public gallery
Star Ferry: one of Hong Kong’s must-do experiences, all for a bit of shrapnel
Chi Lin Nunnery: where peace and serenity doesn’t cost a cent
Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens: free walks and gratis squawks
Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden: where the butterflies (and cows and dragonflies) are free
Tian Tan Buddha: a cost-free superlative
Hong Kong Island tram: a bargain ride across Hong Kong Island for a couple of dollars

Weather
Both Hong Kong and Macau have a subtropical climate characterised by hot, humid summers and cool, relatively dry winters.

October, November and most of December are the best months to visit. Temperatures are moderate, the skies are clear and the sun shines. January and
February are cloudy and cold but dry. It’s warmer from March to May, but the humidity is high, and the fog and drizzle can make getting around difficult. The sweltering heat and humidity from June to August can make sightseeing a sweaty proposition, and it is also the rainy season. September is a grand month if you like drama; the threat of a typhoon seems to loom every other day.
The very informative Hong Kong Observatory (2926 8200; 134A Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui) issues weather reports on 1878 200 and on its website. The hotline for cyclone warnings is 2835 1473.

When to go
Hong Kong’s subtropical climate can make it a punishingly hot and humid destination during the summer months. June to mid-September is the hottest time when humidity soars. Summer is also typhoon season, when tropical storms sweep rain and high winds off the South China Sea.

Even in late spring and early autumn, wandering Hong Kong’s streets can be warm work. The best time to go climate-wise is in early spring (March and April) or late autumn (October and November), when the days are generally warm, fresh and (wind direction and mainland smoke stacks permitting) the air often clearer.
Things can cool down a good deal in winter, when it can often be overcast (as opposed to merely smoggy) and temperatures may even feel chilly enough to don warmer layers.

Bustling In Events Each Day - Brazil

2009-12-10T01:31:00.000-08:00

Sprawling across half of South America, Brazil has captivated travelers for at least 500 years. Powdery white-sand beaches, lined with palm trees and fronting a deep blueAtlantic, stretch for more than 7000km. Dotting this coastline are tropical islands, music-filled metropolises and enchanting colonial towns. Inland, Brazil offers dazzling sights of a different flavor: majestic waterfalls, red-rock canyons, and crystal-clear rivers – all just a small part of the natural beauty.

Its larger and more famous attractions are the Amazon and the Pantanal, the pair hosting some of the greatest biodiversity on the planet. Wildlife-watching is simply astounding here, as is the opportunity for adventure – though you needn’t go to the jungle to find it. Kayaking, rafting, trekking, snorkeling and surfing are just a few ways to spend a sun-drenched afternoon in nearly any region in Brazil.

Some of the world’s most exciting cities lie inside of Brazil’s borders, and travelers need not come to Carnaval to experience the music, dance and revelry that pack so many calendar nights. Given the country’s innumerable charms, the only drawback to traveling in Brazil is a logistical (and financial) one: you simply won’t want to leave.

Money & costs
Costs
Although still cheaper than North America and parts of Europe, Brazil, with its booming economy and strong real, has become South America’s most expensive country.

How much to budget depends on where you stay and how much ground you plan to cover. Some cities, like Rio, have grown particularly pricey in the last few years. Rural and less-visited destinations are often significantly cheaper. Bus travel costs about R$8 (US$4) per hour of distance covered.

Flights, which sometimes run fare specials, might not cost much more for long hauls. Decent accommodations and particularly rental cars (which cost about R$100 per day) can quickly eat up a budget.

If you’re frugal, you can travel on about R$100 (US$50) a day – paying around R$40 foraccommodations, R$30 for food and drink, plus bus travel, admission to sights and the occasional entertainment activity. If you just stay in hostels and plan to lie on a beach, eating rice, beans and fish every day, you can probably scrape by on R$70 a day.

If you stay in reasonably comfortable hotels, eat in nicer restaurants, go out most nights and book the occasional flight or guided excursion, you’ll probably spend upwards of R$250 a day. Those planning to stay overnight at particularly comfortable guesthouses in resort areas, eat at the best restaurants and not stint on excursions or nightlife can easily spend R$500 a day or more.

Bear in mind that during the December-to-February holiday season, accommodations costs generally increase by around 30%. During Carnaval accommodations prices triple, but a week afterwards, the prices drop to low-season rates. Another thing to remember: resort areas near major cities are often packed on summer weekends. There will be fewer crowds – and sometimes lower prices – if you visit during the week.

Brazil is fair value for solo travelers, as long as you don’t mind staying in hostels. Otherwise, a single room generally costs about 75% of the price of a double room.

Tipping
Workers in most services get tipped 10%, and as they make the minimum wage – which is not enough to live on – you can be sure they need the money. In restaurants the service charge will usually be included in the bill and is mandatory. If a waitperson is friendly and helpful you can give more. When the service charge is not included, a 10% tip is customary.

There are many places where tipping is not customary but is a welcome gesture. The local juice stands, bars, coffee corners, street and beach vendors are all tipped on occasion. Parking assistants receive no wages and are dependent on tips, usually R$2. Gas-station attendants, shoe shiners and barbers are also frequently tipped. Most people round up taxi fares to the nearest real, but tipping is not expected.

Money
Brazil’s currency is the real (hay-ow; often written R$); the plural is reais (hay-ice). One real is made up of 100 centavos. The real was introduced on a one-for-one parity with the US dollar in 1994 but after 13 years of modest fluctuations reached a value of around US$0.50 by 2007.

Banknotes are easy to distinguish from each other as they come in different colors with a different animal featured on each. There’s a green one-real note (hummingbird), a blue two (hawksbill turtle), a violet five (egret), a scarlet 10 (macaw), a yellow twenty (lion-faced monkey), a golden-brown 50 (jaguar) and a blue 100 (grouper fish).

ATMs
ATMs are the easiest way of getting cash in big cities and are common. In many smallertowns, ATMs exist but rarely work for non-Brazilian cards. Make sure you have a four-digit PIN (longer PINs may not work). In general HSBC, Citibank, Banco do Brasil and Bradesco are the best ATMs to try.

Look for the stickers on the machines that say Cirrus, Visa, or whatever system your card uses – though this may not mean the machine will necessarily work. Do take care when using ATMs; there have been a number of scams, where criminals have managed to hack into bank accounts of ATM users and subsequently drain them. See also Dangers & Annoyances.

Cash & traveler’s checks
Even if you are relying mainly on credit or debit cards as your source of funds, it’s not a bad idea to take some cash and traveler’s checks in reserve. You can change these in banks or in casas de câmbio (exchange offices).

Banks have slower, more bureaucratic procedures but on the whole give better exchange rates (an exception being Banco do Brasil which charges R$40 commission for every traveler’s check transaction). You’ll usually get a 1% or 2% better exchange rate for cash than for traveler’s checks. Checks, of course, have the advantage of being replaceable if lost or stolen.

Both cash and traveler’s checks should be either in US dollars or euros, and Amex is easily the most recognized traveler’s check. Thomas Cook, Barclays and Citibank traveler’s checks are less widely accepted, but you should be able to cash them in largecities.

Credit cards
You can use credit cards for many purchases and to make cash withdrawals from ATMs and banks. Visa is the most widely accepted card, followed by MasterCard. Amex and Diners Club cards are also useful.

Visa cash advances are widely available, even in small towns with no other currency-exchange facilities; you’ll need your passport, and the process can be time consuming, especially at the ubiquitous but bureaucratic Banco do Brasil. In Brazilian banks generally, it’s preferable to deal with machines than to try to make contact with human beings. Credit-card fraud is extremely common in Brazil. Keep your card in sight at all times, especially in restaurants.

When to go
Brazil’s high season runs from December to March. This is when the country fills with both foreign visitors and vacationing Brazilian families (school holidays run from mid-December to Carnaval, usually in February). Prices rise during this time and you’ll face more crowds, though this is also the most festive time in Brazil. Brazil’s low season runs from May to September.

With the exception of July, which is also a school-holiday month, this is the cheapest and least-crowded time to visit the country – though it can be utterly vacant in some resort areas and cold in the south.

During the summer, which runs from December to February (school holidays coinciding), Rio and the Northeast have temperatures in the high 30s. The rest of the year temperatures are generally in the mid-20s to low 30s.

The south has wider temperature variations, ranging from 15°C in the winter (June through August) to 35°C in the summer.
The Amazon region rarely gets hotter than 27°C, but it is humid there, with considerable rainfall over tropical Amazonia. In some parts of the North, December to March is considered winter, since that’s the rainiest season.

Owing to generally temperate weather year-round, there’s no bad time to visit Brazil. But unless you have your heart set on attending Carnaval, you may want to avoid the summer crowds (and heat), and visit from April to November. Treks into the Amazon and the Pantanal are best then – especially from June to August, when it’s drier.

Festivals & Events
Carnaval is King of the Brazilian festival calendar - and rightly so. But there are plenty ofother festive events to enjoy during your trip to Brazil, as the list below attests...

Festa de Iemanjá (Festival of Iemanjá) Celebrated in Rio on January 1, and in Salvador on February 2.
Procissão do Senhor Bom Jesus dos Navegantes (Procession of the Lord Jesus of Boatmen) In Salvador, Bahia on New Year's Day.
Lavagem do Bonfim (Washing of Bonfim church) Second Thursday in January.
A Candomblé festival culminating in the ritual cleansing of Bonfim church in Salvador, Bahia.
Carnaval Friday to Tuesday preceding Ash Wednesday. Carnaval celebrations usually start well before the official holiday.
Semana Santa (Holy Week) The week before Easter. Festival in Congonhas, Ouro Prêto, Goiás Velho.
Dia do Índio (Indian Day) April 19.
Festas Juninas (June Festivals) Throughout June. Celebrated throughout in Rio state and much of the rest of the country.
Boi-Bumbá June 28–30. Celebrated in Parintins, Amazonas
Bumba Meu Boi Late June to second week of August. Festival in São Luís.
Fortal (out-of-season Carnaval) Last week of July. Celebrated in Fortaleza
Jubileu do Senhor Bom Jesus do Matosinhos (Jubilee of the Savior of Matosinhos) September 7–14. Celebrated in Congonhas.
Círio de Nazaré (Festival of the Virgin of Nazaré) Starts second Sunday in October. Festival in Belém.
Carnatal (Carnaval in Natal) First week of December. Natal’s answer to Brazil’s big celebration comes in December (Natalese simply can’t wait for the other Carnaval).

Enchanting Hawaii

2009-12-10T01:11:00.000-08:00

Hawaii, as tourist bureaus and Hollywood constantly remind us, is ‘paradise.’ Push past the hype and what do you find? Darned if they’re not right. Hawaii is hiking sculpted cliffs or diving coral-reef cities in the afternoon and drinking mai tais to slack-key guitar at sunset. It’s slurping chin-dripping papayas with hibiscus flowers in your hair; it’s Pacific Rim cuisine, fiery volcanoes and cavorting whales.
By serendipity and design (and popular consensus), Hawaii is an almost flawless destination. It’s an enchanting multicultural society whose roots lie in Polynesia, Asia, North America and Europe, and it’s an expression of nature at its most luscious and divine.

Over seven million visitors come to experience paradise annually, but the islands are not as crushed with sun-baked tourists and cooing honeymooners as you might think. If you want a cushy resort vacation, head for Oahu’s Maui.

For something cheaper or more adventurous, aim for the Big Island or Kaua'i. If time is short, stick to one island and make the most of it. Honolulu & Waikiki are teeming cultural and economic powerhouses, but in under an hour you can be alone in the rain forest or snoozing on white sand.

Locals know that Hawaii isn’t really paradise, but on any given day it can sure feel like it.
History
Little is known about Hawaii’s first settlers, who arrived around AD 500. Tahitians arrived around AD 1000 and for the next 200 years navigated thousands of miles back andforth across the ocean in double-hulled canoes. Ruled by chiefs, ancient Hawaiian society was actually matriarchal, and its religion followed strict laws known as kapu.

By accident, famed British explorer Captain James Cook ‘discovered’ the islands in 1778. The first white Westerner to arrive, Cook was mistaken for the god Lono and treated like a deity. He stayed several weeks and then resumed his journey. When he returned to Hawaii a year later, his less-than-godlike behavior led to fighting and he was killed.

Beginning in the 1790s, King Kamehameha, chief of the Big Island, conquered and united all the Hawaiian islands. He is credited with bringing peace and stability to a society that was often in flux due to wars and the power struggles of the ruling class. However, after his death in 1819 his son inherited the throne and, in a stunning repudiation of their religion, deliberately violated the kapu and destroyed the temples.

As fate would have it, Christian missionaries arrived not long after, and in the midst of Hawaii’s social and spiritual chaos they found it relatively easy to ‘save souls.’ New England whalers also arrived, seeking different quarry, and by the 1840s Lahaina and Honolulu were the busiest whaling towns in the Pacific.

Meanwhile, foreigners made a grab for Hawaii’s fertile land, turning vast tracts into sugarcane plantations. As there weren’t enough Hawaiians to work the fields, immigrants were brought in from China, Japan, Portugal and the Philippines, giving rise to Hawaii’s multiethnic culture but also displacing Native Hawaiians, most of whom became landless
In 1893 a group of American businessmen overthrew the Hawaiian monarchy. The US government was initially reluctant to support the coup, but it soon rationalized its colonialism by citing the islands’ strategic importance and annexed Hawaii in 1898. Hawaii played an infamous role in US history when a surprise attack on Pearl Harbor vaulted America into WWII.

Hawaii became the 50th US state in 1959.In February 2009, Hawaii Senator Daniel Akaka reintroduced into the US Congress the Native Hawaiian Government Reorganization Act –aka the Akaka Bill. This seeks to establish the legal framework through which a Native Hawaiian government can be formed and thereby gain federal recognition of Native Hawaiians as the indigenous people of Hawaii. This would, in essence, finally put them on the same legal footing as the over 500 federally-recognized Native American tribes.

Federal recognition of Native Hawaiians is widely supported in Hawaii (including by Governor Lingle), but there is lots of controversy and disagreement over what shape ‘Hawaiian sovereignty’ should ultimately take. As a result, the bill’s sponsors emphasize what the legislation does not do: it doesn’t establish a government (it provides the means for doing so); it doesn’t settle any reparation claims; it doesn’t take private land or create a ‘reservation’; it doesn’t authorize gambling; and it doesn’t allow Hawaii to secede from the US.

Establishing a Native Hawaiian government, as Senator Akaka has said, ‘is important for all people of Hawaii, so we can finally resolve the longstanding issues relating from the overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaii.’

The two main options are the semi-autonomous ‘nation-within-a-nation’ model, similar to Native Americans, and outright sovereignty, in which Native Hawaiians would have full autonomy over portions of land within the state of Hawaii. Either option raises thorny, complex questions about who would be included and what land would be used. However, there are starting points for addressing both.

First, the state of Hawaii holds in trust over a million acres of ‘ceded lands,’ which by law are to be used for the benefit of Native Hawaiians, in addition to the island of Kahoʻolawe. Second, extensive Native Hawaiian genealogical databases already exist, since the separate dispersal of Hawaiian Homelands requires that applicants prove they are at least 50% Native Hawaiian. Today, with Hawaii-born President Barack Obama indicating his support, hopes run high that the Akaka Bill might soon be passed

Weather
The Hawaiian Islands exist because of a hot spot beneath the earth’s slow-moving Pacific Plate, which has been spewing lava and creating islands for 70 million years. Today, the state of Hawaii contains eight main islands, only six of which are populated.
Measure for measure, the Hawaiian islands are as diverse as it gets. Their flora and fauna are a textbook case of Darwinian evolution.

Time and time again, single migratory species blossomed into dozens of variations, as isolated individuals adapted to arid coastal deserts, rain forests and snow-capped subarctic mountaintops. As a result, the majority of Hawaiian plants and animals are endemic, and nearly as often, endangered.

All the islands have similar climates: southwestern coasts are sunny, dry and lined with sandy beaches, while the northeastern sides have lush rain forests, cascading waterfalls and pounding surf. Hawaii enjoys warm weather year-round, with coastal temperatures averaging a high of 83°F (28°C) and a low of 68°F (20°C). Summer and fall are the driest seasons, winter the wettest.

Discovering Tahiti & French Polynesia

2009-12-10T00:47:00.000-08:00

Better known by the name of its main island, Tahiti, French Polynesia is a mesmerising wonderland of reef-fringed islands and translucent aqua lagoons. Shamelessly chic and seductive, it's the kind of place where the rich and famous come to play and hedonistic honeymoon fantasies are realised. The epitome of the Pacific dream, this is one Garden of Eden so damn beautiful it's hard to believe it really exists.

French Polynesia is more than just some souped up, sexy honeymoon destination, however. Those seeking something stronger than a pina colada in the sand will find salvation never more than a boat ride away. Adventures are plentiful in these archipelagos scattered over an area as big as Europe.

Take an old school pirate romp through the mysterious and danger-tinged Tuamotu Islands, where the breathtaking turquoise sea is home not only to flawless black pearls, but also hundreds of toothy sharks. Travel to the ends of the earth, destination Austral Islands, a place so remote centuries slide by without anyone batting an eye.

Check out the Gambier Archipelago: an armchair destination for most, it's also a must for wannabe National Geographic explorers. Those searching for a little less swashbuckling and a lot more room service will delight in Bora Bora's luxurious pampering and lush good looks; in Maupiti's picture-perfect views and old-fashioned French hospitality.

The truth is, whether you've secretly fantasised about splitting coconuts with your bare hands in a Rambo meetsRobinson Crusoe scenario or daydreamed about playing heroine in a mushy Hollywood movie, French Polynesia tempts you to dream your wildest of fantasies right into punch-drunk reality.
French Polynesia comprises five main island groups - the Society Islands, the Tuamotus, the Marquesas, the Australs and the Gambier Archipelago. Tahiti is in the Society Islands.

Money & costs
Costs
French Polynesia is expensive by anyone's standards and travel costs are some of the highest in the world. Flights alone tend to be a substantial cost, but once you arrive you may be shocked to find even the cheapest meal, bought from a vendor off the street, will set you back around 1200 CFP.

Backpackers who cook all their own meals and stay in the cheapest rooms possible can skimp by on around 10,000 CFP per day. Midrange travellers, looking for more comfortable beds and wanting to take in a few restaurant meals and perhaps an organised excursion, can count on paying around 20,000 CFP per day. Top-end visitors will find the sky is the limit when it comes to posh lodging and dining options and watery excursions.

Over-water bungalows start at around US$500 per night, and a stay on a private island can cost as much as US$10,000! To score the best deals, try to book in advance. If you're travelling with the kids, many places offer half-price discounts for children under the age of 12.

Taxation is another bugbear here: a TVA (taxe sur la valeur ajoutée; value-added tax), which was introduced in 1998, currently adds 6% to your hotel bill (and that's not including the 5% government tax and the taxe de séjour, accommodation tax or daily tax, which top off the bill). We've included all taxes in our listed prices.

Money
The unit of currency in French Polynesia is the Cour de Franc Pacifique (CFP), referred to simply as 'the franc'. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 CFP, and notes of 500, 1000, 5000 and 10, 000 CFP. The CFP was pegged to the French franc, and so is now pegged to the euro.

There are fairly hefty bank charges for changing money and travellers cheques in French Polynesia. You generally pay at least 500 CFP commission on travellers cheques and to exchange cash, although exchange rates do vary from bank to bank, so if you have time, shop around to find the best rate.

Given the cost of living in French Polynesia, and the low crime rate, you are better off exchanging larger sums of money (ie, fewer transactions) than smaller amounts. Rates offered on Tahiti tend to be better than those offered on the other islands.

The unit of currency in French Polynesia is the franc cours pacifique (CFP), referred to simply as 'the franc'. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 CFP, and notes of 500, 1000, 5000 and 10, 000 CFP. The CFP was pegged to the French franc, and so is now pegged to the euro.

There are fairly hefty bank charges for changing money and travellers cheques in French Polynesia. You generally pay at least a 500 CFP commission on travellers cheques and to exchange cash, although exchange rates do vary from bank to bank; if you have time, shop around to find the best rate.

Given the cost of living in French Polynesia, and the low crime rate, you are better off exchanging larger sums of money (ie making fewer transactions) than smaller amounts. Rates offered on Tahiti tend to be better than those offered on the other islands.

Climate & when to go
The dry winter period from May to October is the best time to visit; the weather is cooler and there is much less rainfall. Temperatures rise during the November to April summer rainy season when it's humid, cloudy and very wet. Three-quarters of the annual rainfall occurs during this period, generally in the form of brief, violent storms, although torrential rains lasting several days are not uncommon.
French Polynesia is south of the equator, but school holidays fall in line with those of the northern hemisphere.

This means the peak season is July and August, and during this period it's no mean feat getting flights and accommodation. Christmas to early January, late February and early March, the Easter period, early May and early October are also quite busy times. The peak July-August season coincides with the Heiva festival, held throughout July, when the region comes to life.

Diving is popular year-round, and each season brings its share of discoveries. Surfing is also a year-round activity, but if you are sailing, it's best if you avoid the November to March tropical depressions. Walking is best in the dry season, as some of the trails are simply impassable when it's wet.

Canada

2009-12-10T00:12:00.000-08:00

Oh, it’s big all right. Damn big. And we’re not referring to Canada’s size (a whopping 10 million sq km, making it the world’s second-largest country). What we’re talking about here is the handle on a Canadian beer case – big enough to fit your hands, even with mittens on. If you think that’s impressive, consider Canada’s other mondo attributes.

Its terrain is filled with them, from mammoth mountains to hulking glaciers to immense polychromatic skies. Then there are the creatures that roam the terrain and its waterways – grizzly bear, moose, polar bear, humpback whales – each one huger than the next.

Canada is impossible to dislike, but go ahead and give it a shot. You don’t like festival-packed cities like Toronto and Montreal that offer the world’s best quality of life? Then take a double dose of history in St John’s, Newfoundland, North America’s oldest city.

Not enamoured with the prospect of hiking, skiing or snowboarding over the cloud-poking mountains of Banff & Jasper National Parks? Try a slow ride through the wheat-waving prairies of Saskatchewan. You want a nosh lighter than Alberta beef or Nunavut whale blubber? Pick up ripe peaches and cheeses from the Kelowna’s local farmers’ markets.

And it’s a wonder everyone is so nice, given the weather. It’s cold, as in world’s-coldest-country cold (based on average temperatures nationwide), which explains the mitten-sized beer case handles. Snag, a town in the Yukon, recorded North America’s coldest temperature ever: minus 62.8°C.

Voltaire may have written off Canada as ‘a few acres of snow’ back in the mid-18th century, but those ‘few acres’ have yielded vast amounts of oil, timber and other natural resources, that in turn have propelled Canada to a very enviable standard of living.

Of course, the country has a few issues. The most pressing ones are shaping up to be immigration, provincial squabbling, and striking a balance between economic growth and protecting the environment.

Let’s look at immigration first. Canada takes in the world’s largest per capita annual immigration numbers – around 250,000 people a year, of whom 43% go to Toronto. While this is cool in multicultural terms – allowing you to shop for Buddha trinkets in Vancouver’s Chinatown, chow on curry in Toronto’s Little India, or sip a Vietnamese café au lait in Montréal – it also causes growing pains. Mainly, it’s becoming difficult for Canada to maintain its high-caliber social and physical infrastructures in the face of such relentless population growth.

Then there’s the issue of how to reconcile the divergent interests of Canada’s provinces and territories. The only shared sentiment seems to be that the federal government is insensitive to their particular needs. In the past, the tension was greatest in francophone Québec, which periodically has threatened to secede from confederation. But the grumbling is now getting loudest from the western provinces and territories, which desire more control over their crazy-huge amounts of natural resources.

For instance, Alberta's oil wealth is gushing, and the province would like to keep all its nice new money to itself rather than float the faltering economy of Ontario, where manufacturing is down in the face of cheap imports from China and beyond. The Northwest Territories would like to have more of a say-so regarding its diamond, gold and natural gas profits, rather than just serve as low-hanging fruit to fill Ottawa’s baskets. Even the mild-mannered Atlantic provinces are bickering about federal claims to fishing and mineral rights off their shores.

Could these provinces be next to mount secession movements? There’s talk in the air. And the Clarity Act actually makes it possible. This law from 2000 states that the federal government has to enter into negotiations if there is ‘a clear expression of the will of the population of a province…to cease to be a part of
Canada and become an independent state.’ Sovereignty hopefuls can thank Québec for that opportunity.

Natural resources are also at the crux of our third issue. Yes, they’re helping the Canadian economy to kick ass. By late 2007, the loonie was practically on par with the US dollar and still on its way up – the first time this has happened in three decades. And oil and natural gas are driving the bus. But an economy reliant on natural resources is tricky, because the resources are bound to run out (memo to Canada: see past history of fur and codfish industries). And then what?

Furthermore, the processes for extracting and developing the resources come at a high environmental price. The massive expansion of Alberta’s oil sands production has been tagged as the single biggest factor behind Canada’s wretched performance in reducing greenhouse gas emissions. The repercussions can be felt in the country already – just ask the local polar bear who are getting mighty pissed off (and hungry) as their icy habitat shrinks and their seal dinners drift away.

Right now it’s the federal government that has to figure all this out, led by the new group filling Ottawa’s halls – a Conservative group, oddly enough. After 12 years of center-left Liberals running the show, the Conservatives won the majority in the 2006 elections. They racked up 124 seats compared to 103 seats for the Liberals, with the separatist Bloc Québecois getting 51 seats and the left-leaning New Democrats getting 29 seats. Corruption and a ‘culture of entitlement’ finally did in the Liberals. Stephen Harper became the new prime minister, but he leads Canada’s smallest minority government since Confederation (if you go by proportion of seats). However, Canadian minority governments don’t usually survive long, so don’t be surprised if somebody else is at the helm by the time you read this.

What Canadians discuss around their dinner tables come election time – and what they discuss even when it’s not election time – is the nation’s much-cherished but ailing universal health care system. To be sure, the quality of care is high and getting treatment for minor ailments is easy. But try seeing a specialist or getting a hip replacement and you could be on a waiting list for months.

Although no one will admit it, a two-tiered system is in place, and those with deep pockets can access additional – often quicker – care in private facilities.
Still, a free, portable health care system that’s available to everyone – rich and poor alike – is quite a feat. To many citizens, it’s at the very root of what makes Canada great. So are progressive views on same-sex marriage and marijuana use.

The former is entirely legal; the latter is legal only for medicinal use, though broader decriminalization bills flutter through Ottawa from time to time. And don’t forget this is a country that has a card-carrying Marijuana Party that puts up a candidate for national elections. True, it’s not taking over the prairies any time soon (it received.06% of the popular vote in 2006), but its very existence says something about the local mindset.

In general, Canadians are also liberal about abortion (it’s legal). Issues they cast a critical eye toward include gun control (most prefer restrictions), child care issues (increased funding is appreciated) and taxes (too high). As you’d expect, the Liberals and Conservatives have different views on all these topics, but they don’t diverge as drastically as similar parties in other countries. Even after the Conservatives took the helm in Ottawa, they left most ‘liberal’ concerns alone. Harper and his posse may not be the number-one fans of pot-smoking gays who want to get married, but heck, why bother changing now?

Canada likes to think of itself as peaceable, and it keeps its military involvement fairly low-key. The country has a total of 2900 troops overseas, with most of those in Afghanistan working for the NATO-led International Assistance Security Force. As of August 2007, 70 soldiers had died in the operation. When it comes to actual peacekeeping for the United Nations, the country contributes 126 military personnel to UN missions, ranking it 55th out of 108 troop-contributing countries.

Don’t take our word for this stuff, though. Ask the Vancouverite sitting next to you, or maybe it’s a Newfoundlander, or whomever you meet on the roads in between. Take a pull on your beer, dip into the poutine, draw your fleece up tighter and feel the warmth surround you. It’s nice here, eh?

Weather
Because of Canada’s wealth of arctic terrain, it gets to witness the effects of climate change firsthand. The average annual temperature has increased by 0.9°C over the past 50 years. And while that might go unnoticed by someone in Ottawa – other than prompting a few less days of toque-wearing in winter – residents of northern Canada are seeing some strange sights indeed.

Take the Yukon. As the permafrost thaws around Herschel Island, long-buried coffins are floating to the melting earth’s surface. In Churchill, Manitoba, on Hudson Bay’s frigid coast, polar bear now arrive sooner, stay later and sniff closer to town. Shorter winters have dissolved their ice-based seal-hunting habitat, and all of a sudden, nearby humans are starting to look like juicy T-bones.

Climate change also has bizarre economic ramifications. In the Northwest Territories, the ice roads that carry trucks to the diamond mines are melting, which means supplies have to be flown in – a much costlier (and more polluting) method of transport. And the Olympics are headed to Vancouver in 2010, but will there be enough snow for the slopes and bobsleigh runs?

Then there’s the issue of warmer waters changing fish migration patterns (sockeye salmon have been spotted in the Arctic), warmer weather allowing insects to hatch and infest BC’s forests, and the list goes on.

When to go
You can visit Canada at any time of year, but most people arrive in summer when temperatures are pleasant and much of the action moves outdoors. Just what constitutes ‘summer, ’ though, varies by region. In southern Canada, it generally refers to the period between Victoria Day (late May) and Labour Day (early September).

In the northern regions, however, summer starts as late as mid-June and ends, often abruptly, with the first snowfall in early to mid-September.
In most areas, March to May and September to October bring fewer tourists and often surprisingly pleasant weather. Fall, which finds forests cloaked in a spectacular mantle of color, is a great time to visit.

Canadian winters are long, cold and dark. With most outlying attractions closed, your explorations are pretty much limited to the ski resorts and cities. Québec City, Toronto and Winnipeg are among those cities hosting big winter carnivals.

Best of Britain: traditional dishes

2009-12-09T23:59:00.000-08:00

There’s so much more to traditional British food than fry-ups and white bread sarnies. Try these regional delights for starters:

Spotted Dick, England & Ireland
Much loved for the single entendre of its name, this pudding is rich with dried fruit that appears as spots studded in the pastry. It first appeared in Britain in the 1800s.If you’re still snickering at the name, consider this: it was a favourite gobble of swashbuckling hero Captain Jack Aubrey from the books and film Master and Commander. In Ireland a version is made that’s closer to soda bread with a heavier body, which is often called spotted dog or railway cake. In some prudish circles spotted dick is euphemistically called spotted richard, but whatever you call it a serve of gooey custard is a must.
You can sample it under the name ‘spotted dog’ in Australia , where it can sometimes be served cold as a cake.

Haggis, tatties & neeps, Scotland
Once you’re over the grossness of sheep’s guts (often the liver and lungs) in a large sausage, you’ll find haggis spicily tasty.Many Scots make the deep-fried version their after-pub scoff, but it’s best served with tatties (mashed potato) and neeps (turnips, swede or rutabaga). Lately haggis has gone upmarket to make Highland chicken, where a fowl is stuffed or combined with more tourist-friendly serves of haggis. Historians debate the origins of the haggis, saying it might have been an import from Scandinavia, but it only takes a bite to know you’ve got what the

Scots call The King o’ Puddens.
Scotland’s national dish is best sampled at a Burns Night (January 25), when poems are read to the pud and a bagpiper heralds its arrival.

Bara brith, Wales
In Welsh it literally means ‘speckled bread’ but it’s so much more than bread.Loaded with plump raisins, juicy currants and candied peel, bara brith is more fruit cake than plain old staple and, so, is often called Welsh tea bread. It’s sometimes made without yeast to make it last longer, enabling it to be a well-travelled bread. Welsh settlers took the dish to Argentina, where it became known by the more mysterious name of torta negra (black bread).
Bara brith is best enjoyed slathered with full-cream butter and is still available from most bakeries in Wales.

Toad in the Hole, England
Just as there’s no bunny in Welsh rarebit, this meal is amphibian-free. It involves sausages baked in Yorkshire pudding, a light pastry common to northern England, and is best served swamped with gravy, with a few root vegetables tossed in for roughage.The name may come from the vague resemblance the sausages have to a toad sticking its head from a hole (squint hard!). The dish was served in London’s chop houses of the 18th century, where it was sometimes called pudding pie doll.
Try Jamie Oliver’s reinvention of the dish.

Richmond Eel Pie, London
Never mind four and 20 blackbirds. The real taste of the Thames is at least two slippery customers, skinned and boned and baked in a pie, usually with boiled eggs, sherry and nutmeg. London’s waterways once teemed with these squirmy fish and you can still see signs for eel pie and mash shops south of the river. If you can’t stomach a whole pie, the popular Cockney snack of jellied eels tastes a little like pickled herring – if you don’t mind the slimy texture. Close your eyes and think of Eng-er-lund.
This treat is best sampled at a proper cockney gaff like Manzes, where they still serve eel pie and mash for less than a three squid, guv.

Travel trivia: 10 geeky facts from around the globe

2009-12-09T23:40:00.001-08:00

All-surprising stats and fantastical facts, our info nerds’ world tour will have you pointing out the planet’s most unknown ‘did you knows?’

1. Mt Everest, Nepal. Some things just don’t know they can quit when they’re ahead. Take this stunning snow-dusted peak on the Nepal–Tibet border. At around 8850m, Mt Everest is the highest point on earth. But is it satisfied? Oh no – it’s actually still growing at an estimated 4mm a year, pushed ever upwards by a monumental meeting of tectonic plates. A trip to Everest Base Camp brings you face to face with countless climbers, a colourful tent city and truly extraordinary mountain views. Because they’re still stretching skywards save on the legs; get onto that hike in the foothills sooner rather than later.

2. Mexico CityMexico City meanwhile is sinking at an average rate of 10cm a year, 10 times faster than Venice. The reason? Building on a soft lake bed then pumping out subterranean water reserves, isn’t a good idea. The alarming descent is evidenced in the cracked pavements, wonky buildings and the 23 extra steps up to the iconic Angel of Independence monument; added because the city has subsided around it. Fight that sinking sensation by floating on the ancient canals at Xochimilco. Each weekend this World Heritage Site transforms into fiesta-filled waterways packed with party boats, musicians and marimba players.
Xochimilco is 28km south of Mexico City – hop aboard the light rail train from Tasqueña Metro station for the 40-minute trip .

3. Vatican City. Encircled by design-conscious Italy’s cutting-edge couture, the world’s smallest independent state is sticking firmly to its sartorial traditions. The Vatican’s Swiss Guard still wears a uniform inspired by the Renaissance painter Raphael (compare and contrast it with the garb worn by figures in his frescos in the Papal apartments). In fact, the 44 hectare Holy See has many a geek treat. Point out the population (800), number of citizens (450), licence plates (SCV, CV, international abbreviation V) and flag (yellow and white), not to mention the anthem (Pontifical Hymn) and coins, which are legal tender throughout Italy and the EU, you know.
Procure geekish souvenirs at the gift shop of St Peter’s Basilica, where you can even buy an (empty) bottle of holy water.

4. El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles, USA. What’s in a name? A whole lot less in Los Angeles’ case. Originally rejoicing under the not-so-pithy moniker of the Town of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels, this farming community sprung up in 1781 near what’s now El Pueblo Historical Monument. Today its cluster of museums, ancient plazas and vibrant markets serves up a taste of LA life 1800s-style. For an ultramodern echo of the city’s linguistic origins, head to the 21st-century Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. This innovative structure soars 11 storeys into the sky, its alabaster mosaics flooding the immense interior with opaque light.
Olvera Street is the centre of the site; visit in early September to see the celebratory procession known as the ‘LA Birthday'.

5. Nuestra Señora Santa María del Buen Aire, Argentina. Originally Our Lady St Mary of the Good Air, these days it’s just Buenos Aires. A seductive city of colonial avenues, cosmopolitan cafes and many an all-night party, BA is also the spot to savour that most deliciously melancholic dance: the tango.It pulses through faded ballrooms, leafy parks and vibrant squares, but do you know how to secure a partner? Gentlemen, fix the lady with a long look; if she returns your stare, just give a gentle nod. Ladies, sit with your legs outstretched so a man might stumble at your feet. An encounter occurs; an invitation can follow.

6. London Underground, England. Great geek fact: London’s Metropolitan Railway was the world’s first subway. The 6km section opened in 1863, ran between Paddington and Farringdon, and proved a hit despite steam trains filling stations and tunnels with dense smoke. Riding today’s Circle Line from Paddington to Covent Garden and the London Transport Museum retraces part of that original route. The museum has one of those original sulphur-belching engines; the Metropolitan No 23. As you trundle on a subterranean tour of the capital’s grime and tiles, note the world’s second subway opened in Budapest in 1896, pipping Paris to the post by four years.

7. Venice, Italy. It’s one of those totally touristy things that you really can’t resist: gliding around Venice in a gondola. But as you go grandly down the Grand Canal, ponder a few factoids. Each elegant craft is made from 280 pieces of eight different types of wood. The left side is larger than the right by 24cm, producing a list to starboard, while the slender, raised bow means increased manoeuvrability. Most intriguingly, the parts of a gondola represent bits of this baroque, lagoon-laced city: the front echoes its six districts, the back is Giudecca Island, while the lunette is the Rialto Bridge.
The first Sunday in September sees Venice celebrate the Regatta Storica, a procession of decorated craft followed by a race for expert gondoliers.

8. Great Wall of China. Any geek worth their salt knows this is the biggest military construction on earth – and know to dismiss the ‘only man-made structure able to be seen from space’ claim as urban myth. Rippling across huge swathes of the Chinese countryside, around 2000km still exists of its earlier 7300km sections. They were built by independent kingdoms between the 7th and 4th centuries BC, and were unified under China’s first Emperor Qin Shi Huang around 210 BC. Countless thousands flock to the wall’s tourist hot spots near Beijing, but do those snap-happy hordes know that bit is a Ming dynasty (14-17th century AD) reconstruction?
To see more than the touristy bits, take a trip 120km out of Beijing to Simatai, where more of the wall’s original construction is yours to explore.

9. Table Mountain, South Africa. You wouldn’t think a ‘table’ this big could possibly have a decorative covering, but that’s exactly what this immense ridge of sandstone has. Looming large (1087m to be exact) over Cape Town, the lofty plateau has its own cloud cover: the ‘tablecloth’, which gathers quickly across the top and pours down the sides when the wind whips up from the southeast. While you’re trekking Table Mountain’s trails (or sneaking a lift to the top in the cable car) look out for the recently reintroduced klipspringer, a tiny surefooted antelope that can sometimes be spotted surveying the scene from rocky outcrops.

10. Uluru, Australia. It’s curious to think that without a little rust, Uluru wouldn’t be red at all. This extraordinary rock formation rears abruptly from the heart of Australia’s dusty, russet desert and famously glows a fiery orange-red, especially at sunset. As you hike round the base of what’s probably the world’s largest monolith, think also about Uluru being made up of arkosic sandstone.This acquires its distinctive reddish hue when exposed to oxidation and the iron in the arkose rusts. So what colour would this iconic, vivid chunk of rock be without a little chemical decay? A dismal, rather dull grey.
Visit between April and October to avoid the scorching 45ºC heat of mid-summer – climbing the rock is prohibited between 8am-4pm if the temperature is forecast to be 38ºC.

Get your skates on: holiday-season ice-skating!!

2009-12-09T23:22:00.000-08:00

Central Park, New York City, USA
Recreate your favourite silver screen moments at the Wollman and Lasker rinks in New York City’s Central Park, open daily (and most evenings) all winter long.
Skate hire and lessons available. Prices and opening hours: Wollman Rink, Lasker Rink.

Other places to ice-skate in New York City:
Slip on your skates at the Rockerfeller Center or at The Pond at Bryant Park (it’s free!).

Tower of London, London, England
Skate back in time on the moat at this World-Heritage listed London landmark. This fascinating site of historic skulduggery is open to skaters daily until January; skate hire and lessons available. Opening hours and prices.
Other places to ice-skate in London:
Carve up the ice at the Natural History Museum, the Canary Wharf Ice Rink, or at Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland.

Strasbourg Christmas Markets, Strasbourg, France
Don your skates and glide by the fairy lights at the oldest Christmas markets in France. The markets, which have been running for over 400 years, surround Strasbourg’s Gothic Cathédrale Notre Dame. Skate with this marvel of European architecture as a backdrop, then explore the culinary delights of the markets – where better to satisfy an après-skate appetite?
The ice rink is open daily, and most evenings.

Other places to ice-skate in France:
Carve it up with the Parisians. Skate for free in front of the beautiful neo-Renaissance Hôtel de Ville, or the startling Tour Montparnasse in Paris. (Skate hire available.)
Potsdamer Platz, Berlin, Germany
Immerse yourself in the neon-lit Winterwelt (winter world) in Potsdamer Platz for hours of festive fun. Take in the illuminated splendour of the Brandenburg Gate while busting moves on the ice-rink or go for the inner-city ride of your life on the snow-covered mobile toboggan run. There’s even a ski carousel for the junior fun-seekers. And, of course, plenty of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine, from the surrounding Christmas markets, to keep you warm.

Other places to ice-skate in Germany:
Hit the ice outside Frankfurt’s Opera House, where an outdoor ice rink circles a beautifully illuminated fountain, and pretty stalls offer Christmas treats.

Grouse Mountain, Vancouver, Canada
Get your skates on and beat the Olympians to the ice in Vancouver. Take the aerial tram to the top of Grouse Mountain for the best view of the city and surrounds, strap on your skates and hit the mountaintop Ice Skating Pond, or take a sleigh ride through the forest.
If you’re travelling with junior skaters, take them along to meet reindeer at Santa’s workshop.

Other places to ice-skate in Canada:
Far away from the Olympics crowds, the Bonsecours Basin Skating Rink in the Old Port, Montréal is a popular spot to dance on ice – each night has a different music theme, including rock, retro and classical. Ice skating tips:
Go with the flow – most rink skaters travel counterclockwise; travelling against the tide will end in tears .

Try to fall sideways – there’s more padding, and less risk of serious injury
If you do fall, tuck your fingers in so they aren’t exposed to passing skates.
Got a favourite holiday skating spot or a tip to share? Tell us about it!

Enchanting Kingdom of Nepal

2009-12-09T02:47:00.000-08:00

Draped along the greatest heights of the Himalaya, Nepal is where the ice-cold of the mountains meets the steamy heat of the Indian plains. It's a land of yaks and yetis, stupas and Sherpas and some of the best trekking on earth. The Himalaya's most sophisticated urban cultures took shape here, in the three great minikingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley - Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur - home to a world-class artistic and architectural heritage.

Behind the Vishnu shrine of Ichangu Narayan, northwest of Swayambhunath in the Kathmandu Valley, rises the 'Abode of Snows' (Himalaya in Sanskrit), a magnet for trekkers and mountaineers the world over. Only in Nepal can you trek for weeks without the need even for a tent. No longer does your name have to be Tenzing or Hillary to set foot in Everest Base Camp. Out of the mountains, get your adrenaline kick from world-class white-water rafting, kayaking and mountain biking, or from the spine-tingling sight of your first tiger or rhino in Chitwan National Park.

Nepal is not just a bungee-jumping, apple-pie eating Shangri-la. It's also one of the poorest countries on earth. However, many visitors, drawn to Nepal by the promise of adventure, leave equally enchanted by the friendliness and openness of the Nepali people.

From the natural rhythm you ease into on a trek to the rhythm of a tabla drum at one of Kathmandu's palace restaurants, Nepal is an amazingly diverse country that offers something for everyone. One journey through this land is rarely enough. The first thing many people do after a visit is start planning the next one.

History
The history of Nepal began in, and centres on, the Kathmandu Valley. Over the centuries Nepal's boundaries have extended to include huge tracts of neighbouring India, and contracted to little more than the Kathmandu Valley and a handful of nearby city-states. Though it has ancient roots, the modern state of Nepal emerged only in the 18th century.

Squeezed between the Tibetan plateau and the plains of the subcontinent - the modern-day giants of China and India - Nepal has long prospered from its location as a resting place for traders, travellers and pilgrims. A cultural mixing pot, it has bridged cultures and absorbed elements of its neighbours, yet retained a unique character. After travelling through India for a while, many travellers notice both the similarities and differences. 'Same, same', they say, '…but different'.

The Kiratis & Buddhist beginnings
Nepal's recorded history kicks off with the Hindu Kiratis. Arriving from the east around the 7th or 8th century BC, these Mongoloid people are the first known rulers of the Kathmandu Valley. King Yalambar (the first of their 29 kings) is mentioned in the Mahabharata, the Hindu epic, but little more is known about them.

In the 6th century BC, Prince Siddhartha Gautama was born into the Sakya royal family of Kapilavastu, near Lumbini, later embarking on a path of meditation and thought that led him to enlightenment as the Buddha. The religion that grew up around him continues to shape the face of Asia.

Around the 2nd century BC, the great Indian Buddhist emperor Ashoka (c 272-236 BC) visited Lumbini and erected a pillar at the birthplace of the Buddha. Popular legend recounts how he then visited the Kathmandu Valley and erected four stupas (pagodas) around Patan, but there is no evidence that he actually made it there in person. In either event, his Mauryan empire (321-184 BC) played a major role in popularising Buddhism in the region, a role continued by the north Indian Buddhist Kushan empire (1st to 3rd centuries AD).
Over the centuries Buddhism gradually lost ground to a resurgent Hinduism and by the time the Chinese Buddhist pilgrims Fa Xian (Fa Hsien) and Xuan Zang (Hsuan Tsang) passed through the region in the 5th and 7th centuries the site of Lumbini was already in ruins.

Licchavis, Thakuris, then darkness
Buddhism faded and Hinduism reasserted itself with the arrival from northern India of the Licchavis. In AD 300 they overthrew the Kiratis, who resettled in the east and are the ancestors of today's Rai and Limbu people.
Between the 4th and 8th centuries, the Licchavis ushered in a golden age of cultural brilliance. The chaityas (stupas) and monuments of this era can still be seen at the Changu Narayan Temple, north of Bhaktapur, and in the backstreets of Kathmandu's old town. Their strategic position allowed them toprosper from trade between India and China. It's believed that the original stupas at Chabahil, Bodhnath and Swayambhunath date from the Licchavi era.

Amsuvarman, the first Thakuri king, came to power in 602, succeeding his Licchavi father-in-law. He consolidated his power to the north and south by marrying his sister to an Indian prince and his daughter Bhrikuti to the great Tibetan king Songsten Gompo. Together with the Gompo's Chinese wife Wencheng, Bhrikuti managed to convert the king to Buddhism around 640, changing the face of both Tibet and, later, Nepal.

From the late 7th century until the 13th century Nepal slipped into its 'dark ages', of which little is known. Tibet invaded in 705 and Kashmir invaded in 782. The Kathmandu Valley's strategic location, however, ensured the kingdom's growth and survival. King Gunakamadeva is credited with founding Kantipur, today's Kathmandu, around the 10th century. During the 9th century a new lunar calendar was introduced, one that is still used by Newars to this day.

The golden age of the Mallas
The first of the Malla kings came to power in the Kathmandu Valley around 1200. The Mallas (literally 'wrestlers' in Sanskrit) had been forced out of India and their name can be found in the Mahabharata and in Buddhist literature. This period was a golden one that stretched over 550 years, though it was peppered with fighting over the valuable trade routes to Tibet.

The first Malla rulers had to cope with several disasters. A huge earthquake in 1255 killed around one-third of Nepal's population. A devastating Muslim invasion by Sultan Shams-ud-din of Bengal less than a century later left plundered Hindu and Buddhist shrines in its wake, though the invasion did not leave a lasting cultural effect here (unlike in the Kashmir Valley which remains Muslim to this day). In India the damage was more widespread and many Hindus were driven into the hills and mountains of Nepal, where they established small Rajput principalities.

Apart from this, the earlier Malla years (1220-1482) were largely stable, reaching a high point under the third Malla dynasty of Jayashithi Malla (1382-1395), who united the valley and codified its laws, including the caste system. The mid-13th century saw the de facto rule of Queen Devaladevi, the most powerful woman in Nepal's history.

After the death of Jayashithi Malla's grandson Yaksha Malla in 1482, the Kathmandu Valley was divided up among his sons into the three kingdoms of Bhaktapur(Bhadgaon), Kathmandu (Kantipur) and Patan (Lalitpur). They proceeded to fight with each other over the right to control the rich trading routes with Tibet.

The rest of what we today call Nepal consisted of a fragmented patchwork of almost 50 independent states, from Palpa to Jumla, and the semi-independent states of Banepa and Pharping, most of them minting their own coins and maintaining standing armies.

One of the most important of these was the Nepali-speaking Khasa empire (Western Mallas), based in the far west in the Karnali basin around Sinja and Jumla. The kingdom peaked in the 13th and 14th centuries, only to fragment in the 15th century. Its lasting contribution was the Nepali language that is spoken today as the unifying national language.

Nepal's most profound export was perhaps its architecture; in the 13th century the Nepali architect Arniko travelled to Lhasa and the Mongol capital in Beijing, bringing with him the design of the pagoda, thus changing the face of religious temples across Asia.

The rivalry between the three kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley found its expression in the arts and culture, which flourished in the competitive climate. The outstanding collections of exquisite temples and buildings in each city's Durbar Square are testament to the huge amounts of money spent by the rulers to outdo each other.

The building boom was financed by trade, in everything from musk and wool to salt, Chinese silk and even yak tails. The Kathmandu Valley stood at the departure point for two separate routes into Tibet, via Banepa to the northeast and via Rasuwa and the Kyirong Valley near Langtang in the northwest. Traders would cross the jungle-infested Terai during winter to avoid the virulent malaria and then wait in Kathmandu for the mountain passes to open later that summer.

Kathmandu grew rich and its rulers converted their wealth into gilded pagodas and ornately carved royal palaces. In the mid-17th century Nepal gained the right to mint Tibet's coins using Tibetan silver, further enriching the kingdom's coffers.

In Kathmandu King Pratap Malla (1641-74) oversaw that city's cultural highpoint with the construction of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace, the Rani Pokhari pond and the first of several subsequent pillars that featured a statue of the king facing the protective Temple of Taleju, who the Mallas had by that point adopted as their protective deity. The mid-17th century also saw a highpoint of building in Patan.

Around 1750 King Jaya Prakash Malla built Kathmandu's Kumari Temple. Notlong afterwards came the Nyatapola Temple in Bhakatapur, the literal highpoint of pagoda-style architecture in Nepal.

The Malla era shaped the religious as well as artistic landscape, introducing the dramatic chariot festivals of Indra Jatra and Machhendranath. The Malla kings shored up their position by claiming to be reincarnations of the Hindu god Vishnu and establishing the cult of the kumari, a living goddess whose role it was to bless the Malla's rule during an annual celebration.

The cosmopolitan Mallas also absorbed foreign influences. The Indian Mughal court influenced Malla dress and painting, presented the Nepalis with firearms and introduced the system of land grants for military service, a system which would have a profound effect in later years. Persian terminology was introduced to the court administration and in 1729 the three kingdoms sent presents to the Qing court in Beijing, which from then on viewed Nepal as a tributary state. In the early 18th century Capuchin missionaries passed through Nepal to Tibet, giving the West its first descriptions of exotic Kathmandu.

But change didn't only come from abroad. A storm was brewing inside Nepal, just 100km to the east of Kathmandu.

Unification under the Shahs
It took more than a quarter of a century of conquest and consolidation, but by 1768 Prithvi Narayan Shah, ruler of the tiny hilltop kingdom of Gorkha (halfway between Pokhara and Kathmandu), stood poised on the edge of the Kathmandu Valley, about to realise his dream of a unified Nepal.

Prithvi Narayan had taken the strategic hilltop fort of Nuwakot in 1744 and had blockaded the valley, after fighting off reinforcements from the British East India Company. In 1768 Shah took Kathmandu, sneaking in while everyone was drunk during the Indra Jatra festival. A year later he took Kirtipur, finally, after three lengthy failed attempts. In terrible retribution his troops hacked 120 pounds of noses and lips off Kirtipur's residents; unsurprisingly, resistance throughout the valley quickly crumbled. In 1769 he advanced on the three Malla kings, who were quivering in Bhaktapur, ending the Malla rule and unifying Nepal.

Shah moved his capital from Gorkha to Kathmandu, establishing the Shah dynasty, which rules to this day, with its roots in the Rajput kings of Chittor. Shah died just six years later in Nuwakot but is revered to this day as the founder of the nation.

Shah had built his empire on conquest and his insatiable army needed ever more booty and land to keep it satisfied. Within six years the Gurkhas had conquered eastern Nepal and Sikkim. The expansion then turned westwards into Kumaon and Garhwal, only halted on the borders of the Punjab by the armies of the powerful one-eyed ruler Ranjit Singh.

The kingdom's power continued to grow until a 1792 clash with the Chinese in Tibet led to an ignominious defeat, during which Chinese troops advanced down the Kyirong Valley to within 35km of Kathmandu. As part of the ensuing treaty the Nepalis had to cease their attacks on Tibet and pay tribute to the Chinese emperor in Beijing; the payments continued until 1912.

The expanding Nepali boundaries, by this time stretching all the way from Kashmir to Sikkim, eventually put it on a collision course with the world's most powerful empire, the British Raj. Despite early treaties with the British, disputes over the Terai led to the first Anglo-Nepali war, which the British won after a two-year fight. The British were so impressed by their enemy that they decided to incorporate Gurkha mercenaries into their own army.

The 1816 Sugauli treaty called a halt to Nepal's expansion and laid down its modern boundaries. Nepal lost Sikkim, Kumaon, Garhwal and much of the Terai, though some of this land was restored to Nepal in 1858 in return for support given to the British during the Indian Mutiny (Indian War of Independence). A British resident was sent to Kathmandu to keep an eye on things but the Raj knew that it would be too difficult to colonise the impossible hill terrain, preferring to keep Nepal as a buffer state. Nepalis to this day are proud that their country was never colonised by the British, unlike the neighbouring hill states of India.

Following its humiliating defeat, Nepal cut itself off from all foreign contact from 1816 until 1951. The British residents in Kathmandu were the only Westerners to set eyes on Nepal for more than a century.

On the cultural front, temple construction continued impressively, though perhaps of more import to ordinary people was the introduction, via India, of chillis, potatoes, tobacco and other New World crops.

The Shah rulers, meanwhile, swung from ineffectual to seriously deranged. At one point the kingdom was governed by a twelve-year-old female regent, in charge of a nine-year-old king! One particularly sadistic ruler, Crown Prince Surendra, expanded the horizons of human suffering by ordering subjects to jump down wells or ride off cliffs, just to see whether they would die.

The Ranocracy
The death of Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1775 set in motion a string of succession struggles, infighting, assassinations, feuding and intrigue that culminated in the Kot Massacre in 1846. This bloody night was engineered by the young Chhetri noble, Jung Bahadur; it catapulted his family into power and sidelined the Shah dynasty.

Ambitious and ruthless, Jung Bahadur organised (with the queen's consent) for his soldiers to massacre several hundred of the most important men in the kingdom - noblemen, soldiers and courtiers - while they were assembled in the Kot courtyard adjoining Kathmandu's Durbar Square. He then exiled 6000 members of their familles to prevent revenge attacks.

Jung Bahadur took the title of Prime Minister and changed his family name to the more prestigious Rana. He later extended his title to maharajah (king) and decreed it hereditary. The Ranas became a second 'royal family' within the kingdom and held the reins of power - the Shah kings became listless figureheads, requiring permission even to leave their palace.

The hereditary family of Rana prime ministers held power for more than a century, eventually intermarrying with the Shahs. Development in Nepal stagnated, although the country did manage to preserve its independence. Only on rare occasions were visitors allowed into Nepal.

Jung Bahadur Rana travelled to Europe in 1850, attended the opera and the races at Epsom, and brought back a taste for neoclassical architecture, examples of which can be seen in Kathmandu today. To the Ranas' credit, sati (the Hindu practice of casting a widow on her husband's funeral pyre) was abolished in 1920, 60, 000 slaves were released from bondage and a school and a college were established in Kathmandu. But while the Ranas and their relations lived lives of opulent luxury, the peasants in the hills were locked in a medieval existence.

Modernisation began to dawn on Kathmandu with the opening of the Bir Hospital, Nepal's first, in 1889, the first piped water system, limited electricity and the construction of the huge Singha Durbar palace. In 1923 Britain formally acknowledged Nepal's independence and in 1930 the kingdom of Gorkha was renamed the kingdom of Nepal, reflecting a growing sense of national consciousness.

The arrival of the Indian railway line at the Nepali border greatly aided the transportation of goods but sounded a death knell for the caravan trade that bartered Nepali grain and rice for Tibetan salt. The transborder trade suffered another setback when the British opened a second, more direct trade route with Tibet through Sikkim's Chumbi Valley (the real nail in the coffin came in 1966, when the Chinese closed the border to local trade).

Elsewhere in the region dramatic changes were taking place. The Nepalis supplied logistical help during Britain's invasion of Tibet in 1903, and over 300, 000 Nepalis fought in WWI and WWII, garnering a total of 13 Victoria Crosses - Britain's highest military honour - for their efforts.

After WWII, India gained its independence and the communist revolution took place in China. Tibetan refugees fled into Nepal in the first of several waves when the new People's Republic of China tightened its grip on Tibet, and Nepal became a buffer zone between the two rival Asian giants. At the same time King Tribhuvan, forgotten in his palace, was being primed to overthrow the Ranas.

Restoration of the Shahs
In late 1950 King Tribhuvan was driving himself to a hunting trip at Nagarjun when he suddenly swerved James-Bond-style into the expecting Indian embassy, claimed political immunity and was flown to India. Meanwhile, the recently formed Nepali Congress party, led by BP Koirala, managed to take most of the Terai by force from the Ranas and established a provisional government that ruled from the border town of Birganj. India exerted its considerable influence and negotiated a solution to Nepal's turmoil, and King Tribhuvan returned in glory to Nepal in 1951 to set up a new government composed of demoted Ranas and members of the Nepali Congress party.

Although Nepal gradually reopened its long-closed doors and established relations with other nations, dreams of a new democratic system were not permanently realised. Tribhuvan died in 1955 and was succeeded by his cautious son Mahendra. A new constitution provided for a parliamentary system of government and in 1959 Nepal held its first general election. The Nepali Congress party won a clear victory and BP Koirala became the new prime minister. In late 1960, however, the king decided the government wasn't to his taste after all, had the cabinet arrested and swapped his ceremonial role for real control (much as King Gyanendra would do 46 years later).

In 1962 Mahendra decided that a partyless, indirect panchayat (council) system of government was more appropriate to Nepal. The real power remained with the king, who chose 16 members of the 35-member National Panchayat, and appointed the prime minister and his cabinet. Political parties were banned.
Mahendra died in 1972 and was succeeded by his 27-year-old British-educated son Birendra.

Nepal's hippy community was unceremoniously booted out of the country when visa laws were tightened in the run-up to Birendra's coronation in 1975. Simmering discontent with corruption, the slow rate of development and the rising cost of living erupted into violent riots in Kathmandu in 1979. King Birendra announced a referendum to choose between the panchayat system and one that would permit political parties to operate. The result was 55% to 45% in favour of the panchayat system; democracy had been outvoted.

Nepal's military and police apparatus were among the least publicly accountable in the world and strict censorship was enforced. Mass arrests, torture and beatings of suspected activists are well documented, and the leaders of the main opposition, the Nepali Congress, spent the years between 1960 and 1990 in and out of prison.

During this time there were impressive movements towards development, namely in education and road construction, with the number of schools increasing from 300 in 1950 to over 40, 000 by 2000. But the relentless population growth (Nepal's population grew from 8.4 million in 1954 to 26 million in 2004) cancelled out many of these advances, turning Nepal from an exporter to a net importer of food within a generation. It is also widely accepted that a huge portion of foreign aid was routinely creamed off into royal and ministerial accounts.

During this time over one million hill people moved to the Terai in search of land and several million crossed the border to seek work in India (Nepalis are able to cross the border and work freely in India), creating a major population shift in favour of the now malaria-free Terai.

People power
In 1989, as communist states across Europe crumbled and pro democracy demonstrations occupied China's Tiananmen Square, Nepali opposition parties formed a coalition to fight for a multiparty democracy with the king as constitutional head; the upsurge of protest was called the Jana Andolan, or People's Movement.

In early 1990 the government responded to a nonviolent gathering of over 200,000 people with bullets, tear gas and thousands of arrests. After several months of intermittent rioting, curfews, a successful strike, and pressure from various foreign-aid donors, the government was forced to back down. The people's victory did not come cheaply; it is estimated that more than 300 people lost their lives.

On 9 April King Birendra announced he was lifting the ban on political parties. On 16 April he asked the opposition to lead an interim government, and announced his readiness to accept the role of constitutional monarch. Nepal was a democracy.

Democracy & the Maoist uprising
In May 1991, 20 parties contested a general election for a 205-seat parliament. The Nepali Congress won power with around 38% of the vote. The Communist Party of Nepal-Unified Marxist-Leninist (CPN-UML) won 28%, and the next largest party, the United People's Front, 5%.

In the years immediately following the election, the political atmosphere remained uneasy. In April 1992 a general strike degenerated into street violence between protesters and police, and resulted in a number of deaths.
In late 1994 the Nepali Congress government, led by GP Koirala (brother of BP Koirala) called a midterm election. No party won a clear mandate, and a coalition formed between the CPN-UML and the third major party, the Rastriya Prajatantra Party (RPP), the old panchayats, with the support of the Nepali Congress. This was one of the few times in the world that a communist government had come to power by popular vote.

Political stability did not last long, and the late 1990s were littered with dozens of broken coalitions, dissolved governments and sacked politicians.
In 1996 the Maoists (of the Communist Party of Nepal), fed up with government corruption, the failure of democracy to deliver improvements to the people, and the dissolution of the Communist government, declared a 'people's war'.

The insurgency began in the poor regions of the far west and gathered momentum, but was generally ignored by the politicians. The repercussions of this nonchalance finally came to a head in November 2001 when the Maoists broke their ceasefire and an army barracks was attacked west of Kathmandu. After a decade of democracy it seemed increasing numbers of people, particularly young Nepalis and those living in the countryside, were utterly disillusioned.

Royal troubles
On 1 June 2001 the Nepali psyche was dealt a huge blow when Crown Prince Dipendra gunned down almost every member of the royal family during a get-together in Kathmandu. A monarch who had steered the country through some extraordinarily difficult times was gone. When the shock of this loss subsided the uncertainty of what lay ahead hit home.

The beginning of the 21st century saw the political situation in the country turn from bad to worse. Prime ministers were sacked and replaced in 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005, making a total of nine governments in 10 years. The fragile position of Nepali politicians is well illustrated by Sher Bahadur Deuba, who was appointed prime minister for the second time in 2001, before being dismissed in 2002, reinstated in 2004, sacked again in 2005, thrown in jail on corruption charges and then released! Against such a background, modern politics in Nepal has become more about personal enrichment than public service.

Several Maoist truces, notably in 2003 and 2005, offered some respite, though these reflected as much a need to regroup and rearm as they did any move towards a lasting peace. By 2005 nearly 13, 000 people, including many civilians, had been killed in the insurgency, more than half of them since the army joined the struggle in 2001. Amnesty International accused both sides of horrific human-rights abuses, including executions, abductions, torture and child conscription.

The Maoist insurgency has, ironically, only worsened the plight of the rural poor by diverting much-needed government funds away from development and causing aid programmes to suspend activity due to security concerns. Until there is real social change and economic development in the countryside, the frustrations fuelling Nepal's current insurgency look set only to continue.

Nepal's 12-year experiment with democracy faced a major setback in October 2002 when the sour-faced King Gyanendra, frustrated with the political stalemate and the continued delay in holding national elections, dissolved the government. Gyanendra again dissolved the government in February 2005, amid a state of emergency, promising a return to democracy within three years. The controversial king has not been helped by his dissolute son (and heir) Paras, who has allegedly been involved in several drunken hit-and-run car accidents, one of which killed a popular Nepali singer.

Entry into the World Trade Organisation in 2004 and the creation of the regional South Asian free trade agreement in 2006 may offer some long-term economic advances but the country remains deeply dependent on foreign aid, which makes up 25% of the state budget and over two-thirds of Nepal's total development budget. The aid industry has come under increased criticism for failing to generate the economic and social development that had been expected.

Recent years have seen a move away from the megaprojects of the 1960s and '70s to smaller-scale community cooperation and microfinancing.
Everything changed in April 2006, when parlimentary democracy was grudgingly restored by the king, following days of mass demonstrations, curfews and the deaths of 16 protestors. The next month the newly restored parliament reduced the king to a figurehead, ending powers the royal Shah lineage had enjoyed for over 200 years.

The removal of the king was the price required to bring the Maoists to the negotiating table and a peace accord was signed later that year, drawing a close to the bloody decade-long insurgency. The pace of political change in Nepal was remarkable.

The Maoists achieved a majority in the elections of 10 April 2008 and a month later parliament abolished the monarchy by a margin of 560 votes to four, ending 240 years of royal rule. Former Maoist ‘terrorists’ became cabinet ministers, members of the People’s Liberation Army joined the national army and an interim constitution was drafted to help bind the former guerrillas into the political mainstream. A renewed optimism in the political process was palpable throughout Nepal.

By 2008 a new government was formed, with former guerrilla leaders Pushpa Kamal Dahal (known by his nom de guerre Prachanda, which means ‘the Fierce’) as prime minister and Dr Baburam Bhattarai as finance minister.

Ironically the ‘People’s’ armed struggle was led by two high-caste intellectuals.
There has still been plenty of potential for political instability. Calls for greater representation by groups such as the Madhesi of the Terai (who make up 35% of the population and live in the most productive and industrialised part of country) have resulted in a familiar pattern of economic blockades and political violence, and are only the beginning of many more possible claims. Political violence has continued to simmer in the Terai. The wounds of the People’s War will take a long time to heal. Over 1000 Nepalis remain unaccounted for, victims of political ‘disappearance’ or simple murder and finding justice for these crimes may prove elusive.

Moreover, after 40 years and over US$4 billion in aid (60% of its development budget) Nepal has remained one of the world’s poorest countries, with seven million Nepalis lacking adequate food or basic health and education. Nepal has one of the lowest health spending levels and the third-highest infant mortality rate in the world. The majority of Nepalis have continued stoically with their rural lives but until the government delivers on real social change and economic development in the countryside, the frustrations that fuelled Nepal’s recent political violence will remain unresolved.

When to go
Nepal has a typical monsoonal, two-season year. The dry season runs from October to May and there's the wet (monsoon) season from June to September. Autumn (September to November) and spring (March to May) bring almost perfect weather and are definitely the best times to come to Nepal.
October to November, the start of the dry season, is in many ways the absolute best time. With the monsoon only recently finished, the countryside is green and lush, the air is sparkling clean and the Himalayan views are near perfect.

Furthermore, the weather is still balmy. There are some important and colourful festivals to enjoy, though the Dasain festival in October can be disruptive if you are on a tight schedule. For obvious reasons this is also the high tourist season but in recent years, due to the political problems, even Nepal's 'high season' has been pretty quiet.

In December and January the climate and visibility are still good, though it can get very cold at high altitudes. Heading for the Everest Base Camp at this time of year can be a real feat of endurance and the Annapurna Circuit is often closed by snow on the Thorung La. Down in Kathmandu, the cheaper hotels - where there is no heating - are chilly in the mornings and evenings. Tourists start to leave Kathmandu in December like flocks of migratory birds, headed for the warmer climes of India or Thailand. October to February are considered the best times to visit the Terai and Royal Chitwan National Park.

February to April, the tail end of the dry season, is the second-best time to visit. The weather gets warmer so high-altitude treks are not as arduous. Visibility is not as good as earlier in the dry season, but Nepal's wonderful rhododendrons and other flowers are in Technicolor bloom.
May and early June are not the best times to visit as it is extremely hot and dusty, with temperatures often above 30°C, and the coming monsoon seems to hang over you like a threat.

Mid-June to September, when the monsoon finally arrives, is the least popular time to visit Nepal. Although it doesn't rain all day it usually rains every day, and the trails and roads are muddy and plagued by leeches; the Himalaya disappear behind rain clouds; most rivers are too high to raft; and landslides often hold up transport. The latter part of the monsoon (August and September) is a time of festivals, which will certainly enliven a visit to Kathmandu, and this is also thebest time to visit neighbouring Tibet.

Because of its lower altitude, Pokhara is warmer and more pleasant than Kathmandu during winter, but hotter before the monsoon and wetter during it.

Mesmerizing Maldives!!

2009-12-09T02:17:00.000-08:00

Perhaps the ultimate in long haul luxury, the Maldives is currently enjoying incredible growth again having bounced back from a series of disasters in the past few years including the coral bleaching wrought by el Niño and the horror of the 2004 tsunami. Indeed, so superior are its beaches, so cobalt blue its waters and so warm its welcome that the country has become a byword for paradise whether it be for honeymooners, sun worshippers or divers.

A geological eccentricity nestled in the middle of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives are a series of ancient coral reefs that grew up around the sides of towering prehistoric volcanoes. These immense structures have long since sunk into the ocean, leaving behind coral islands of incredible natural beauty, now themselves being colonised by travellers seeking unbridled pampering and romance, from the modernity of Male’ to the idyllic paradise of the Southern Atolls.

This is life stripped down to simplicity – bright blue skies, all-year sunshine and fantastic diving and snorkelling in lagoons the temperature of bath water. The country embraces travellers from around the world allowing them the freedoms holiday makers require without compromising the islands’ deep Muslim faith one bit.
This is an exciting time to visit a country in developmental frenzy.

Every few months brings newly opened resorts from top end boutique brands to ecologically sound back-to-nature hotels. Not cheap even at the bottom end, this is a place for a holiday of a lifetime (and that phrase suddenly takes on a new meaning here). The Maldives demands the attention of anyone looking for a uniquely indulgent break, breathtaking nature and sheer beauty that stays with you long after your tan has faded.

Fast Facts about Maldives

Number of internally displaced people since the tsunami
11, 000
Percentage of population living in Male’
27%
Number of atolls
26
Number of shark attacks since 1976
none
Percentage of GDP spent on defence
5.5%
Area
90, 000 sq km (above water 300 sq km)
Inflation
6.8%
Population
360,000
Percentage of the country that is water
99.9%
GDP per capita
US$2509

Study
Language

The language of the Maldives is Divehi, also commonly written as ‘Dhivehi’. It is related to an ancient form of Sinhala, a Sri Lankan language, but also contains some Arabic, Hindi and English words. On top of all this, there are several different dialects throughout the country.

English is widely spoken in Male’, in the resorts, and by educated people throughout the country. English is also spoken on Addu, the southernmost atoll, where the British employed many of the islanders on the air base for 20 years. On other islands, especially outside the tourism zone, you’d be very lucky to find an adult who speaks anything other than Divehi.

Divehi has its own script, Thaana, which was introduced by the great Maldivian hero Thakurufaanu after he tossed out the Portuguese in the 16th century. Thaana looks like shorthand, has 24 letters in its alphabet and is read from right to left (their front page is our back page).

The Romanised transliteration of the language is a potpourri of phonetic approximations, and words can be spelt in a variety of ways. This is most obvious in Maldivian place names. For example: Majeedi Magu is also spelt Majidi, Majeedhee and Majeedee; Hithadhoo also becomes Hithadhu and Hitadhu; and Fuamulak can be Fua Mulaku, Foahmmulah or, thanks to one 19th-century mariner, Phoowa Moloku.

To add to the confusion, several islands have the same name (there are six called Viligili), and there are names for the 20 administrative atolls that do not coincide with the names used for the Maldives’ 25 natural atolls.

There is no officially correct, or even consistent, spelling of Divehi words in official English language publications.
Maldivians are pleased to help you learn a few phrases of Divehi, and, even if you only learn a few words, the locals you meet will be very appreciative of your interest.

The best phrasebook available is Practical Divehi by M Zuhair (Novelty Press, Male’, 1991). It’s available from the Novelty Bookshop in Male’ and in a number of the resort shops.

Courses
Diving courses are a particular attraction for travellers to the Maldives. The standard learn-to-dive course is an open-water certificate, but the bigger dive centres offer a host of advanced and speciality courses, including advanced open water, divemaster, night diving and so on.

Weather
The Maldives has a tropical climate distinguished by two seasons, or monsoons: the dry northeast monsoon from December to March, and the wet southwestern monsoon from May to November, with more strong winds and rain. April is a transitional period noted for clear water and heat. The temperature remains remarkably consistent at around 30°C.

When to go
The Maldives specialises in winter sun for Europeans, making high season December to April, when the islands enjoy the dry monsoon with little rain and lower humidity while Europe shivers. February to April is the hottest period and resorts are almost all operating at capacity during this period. Mid-December to early January comes at even more of a premium due to Christmas and New Year and prices are even higher. Easter and the Italian holiday week in August also attract peak prices at most resorts, especially the Italian-oriented ones.

From May to November is the period when storms and rain are more likely. It’s still warm, but skies can be cloudy and the humidity is higher. This is the low season, with fewer people and lower prices, with the exception of August.

Diving is good year-round, although a basic rule is that life on the reef is more varied and visibility better on the western side of any atoll from May to November and from the eastern side of any atoll December to April. This means you’d be wise to choose your resort accordingly.

The surfing season runs from March to October, which is great as this is when resorts are cheapest.

There is no bad time to visit the Maldives, although if you’re interested in spending time in Male’ or any other inhabited islands, Ramazan is a time to avoid as restaurants are closed and people aren’t always at their most receptive.

A Fresh New East Timor

2009-12-09T01:58:00.000-08:00

Nothing is easy about East Timor (Timor-Leste in the locally preferred Portuguese) and that’s both its blessing and its curse. Independence hasn’t been simple; years spent under Portuguese and Indonesian thumbs have been burdened by tragedy, and recent history shows why you can’t just declare yourself a new country (as happened in 2002) and expect things to be hunky-dory. Travellers will experience some of the challenges the Timorese contend with on a daily basis, and that may be the best reason to visit.

The tourism infrastructure is barely developed, yet there’s just enough for the adventurous to experience this beautiful place without undue travail. The diving is magnificent, the countryside superb and the people genuinely welcoming. Once you've had your fill of the capital, head east of Dili and discover the country's best beaches, or head out to Atauro Island fro some great snorkeling. And just as the locals have found ways to get by, you will too – which only makes your journey more rewarding.
Sure the roads are crap and getting from one place to another can take forever, but the flip side is that you’ll rarely be following in others’ footsteps.

You can get into the unique cultural rhythm that combines European and Asian beats. There’s a nod and a wave from everyone you meet. Soon you’ll realise that what’s easiest about East Timor is its charm.

Health & safety
Dangers & annoyances
Malaria and dengue are common and are real concerns for those staying in East Timor; take precautions. Consider all tap water and ice as highly suspect (bottled water is widely available) and do as the locals do: wipe off any water from the tops of beverage cans before drinking. Antibiotics and other pharmaceuticals are easily bought in Dili but are hard to find elsewhere.

The main risks associated with East Timor besides political upheaval are those universal concerns of road safety and petty crime.
The driving in East Timor is generally passive and traffic is far from dense; however, vehicles and roads are generally in poor condition, and are made more hazardous by wandering livestock. Sudden wash-outs of roads is just one reason why driving after nightfall outside Dili is foolish.

Theft most frequently occurs from cars, with mobile phones a prime target. Wandering alone on the beach at night is never a good idea, and women travelling solo should take particular care, but generally the crime rate is not high.
Given the regular bouts of political instability in East Timor, check the current situation before you visit (although government travel advisories are usually cautious in the extreme). Outside of mass unrest, political violence is not aimed at non-Timorese. If you see stone throwing or other provocations, vamoose.

History

Portuguese settle in
Little is known of Timor before AD 1500, although Chinese and Javanese traders visited the island from at least the 13th century, and possibly as early as the 7th century. These traders searched the coastal settlements for aromatic sandalwood, which was valued for its use in making furniture and incense, and beeswax, used for making candles.

Portuguese traders arrived between 1509 and 1511, but it wasn’t until 1556 that a handful of Dominican friars established the first Portuguese settlement at Lifau – in the present-day Oecussi enclave – and set about converting the Timorese to Catholicism.
In 1642, Francisco Fernandes led a Portuguese military expedition to weaken the power of the Timor kings. Comprised primarily of Topasses, the ‘black Portuguese’ mestizos (people of mixed parentage) from neighbouring Flores, his small army of musketeers settled in Timor, extending Portuguese influence into the interior.

To counter the Portuguese, the Dutch established a base at Kupang in western Timor in 1653. The Portuguese appointed an administrator to Lifau in 1656, but the Topasses went on to become a law unto themselves, driving out the Portuguese governor in 1705.
By 1749 the Topasses controlled central Timor and marched on Kupang, but the Dutch won the ensuing battle, expanding their control of western Timor in the process. On the Portuguese side, after more attacks from the Topasses in Lifau, the colonial base was moved east to Dili in 1769.
The 1859 Treaty of Lisbon divided Timor, giving Portugal the eastern half, together with the north coast pocket of Oecussi; this was formalised in 1904. Portuguese Timor was a sleepy and neglected outpost ruled through a traditional system of liurai (local chiefs). Control outside Dili was limited and it wasn’t until the 20th century that the Portuguese intervened in the interior.
World war two
In 1941, Australia sent a small commando force into Portuguese Timor to counter the Japanese, deliberately breaching the colony’s neutral status. Although the military initiative angered neutral Portugal and dragged Portuguese Timor into the Pacific War, it slowed the Japanese expansion. Australia’s success was largely due to the support it received from the locals, for whom the cost was phenomenal. In 1942 the Portuguese handed control to the Japanese whose soldiers razed whole villages, seized food supplies and killed Timorese in areas where the Australians were operating. By the end of the war, between 40, 000 and 60, 000 Timorese had died.

Portuguese pull out; indonesia invades
After WWII the colony reverted to Portuguese rule until, following the coup in Portugal on 25 April 1974, Lisbon set about discarding its colonial empire. Within a few weeks political parties had been formed in East Timor, and the Timorese Democratic Union (UDT) attempted to seize power in August 1975. A brief civil war saw its rival Fretilin (previously known as the Timorese Social Democrats) come out on top, declaring the independent existence of the Democratic Republic of East Timor on 28 November. But on 7 December the Indonesians launched their attack on Dili.
Indonesia opposed the formation of an independent East Timor, and the leftist Fretilin raised the spectre of Communism. The full-scale invasion of the former colony came one day after Henry Kissinger and Gerald Ford departed Jakarta, having tacitly given theirassent. (Indeed, the Americans urged the Indonesians to conduct a swift campaign so that the world wouldn’t see them using weapons provided by the USA.) Australia also sided with Indonesia, leaving the Timorese to face Indonesia alone.

By 1976 there were 35, 000 Indonesian troops in East Timor. Falintil, the military wing of Fretilin, fought a guerrilla war with marked success in the first few years, but weakened considerably thereafter. The cost of the brutal takeover to the East Timorese was huge; it’s estimated that at least 100, 000 died in the hostilities, and ensuing disease and famine.

By 1989, Indonesia had things firmly under control and opened East Timor to tourism. Then, on 12 November 1991 Indonesian troops fired on protesters gathered at the Santa Cruz Cemetery in Dili to commemorate the killing of an independence activist. With the event captured on film and aired around the world, the embarrassed Indonesian government admitted to 19 killings, although it’s estimated that over 200 died in the massacre.
While Indonesia introduced a civilian administration, the military remained in control. Aided by secret police and civilian Timorese militia to crush dissent, reports of arrest, torture and murder were numerous.

Independence
Timorese hopes for independence remained high, but Indonesia showed no signs of making concessions until the fall of the Soeharto regime. Shortly after taking office in May 1998, Soeharto’s successor, President Habibie, unexpectedly announced a referendum for East Timorese autonomy, much to the horror of the military. On 30 August 1999, East Timor voted overwhelmingly (78.5%) for independence from, rather than autonomy within, Indonesia. Though the Indonesian government promised to respect the results of the UN-sponsored vote, military-backed Timorese militias massacred, burnt and looted the country.

International condemnation led to UN troops bringing peace to East Timor beginning in September 1999. Half a million people had been displaced, and telecommunications, power installations, bridges, government buildings, shops and houses were destroyed.

Today these scars are everywhere.
The UN set up a temporary administration during the transition to independence, and aid and foreign workers flooded into the country. As well as physically rebuilding the country, East Timor has had to create a civil service, police, judiciary, education, health system and so on, with staff recruited and trained from scratch.

The UN handed over government to East Timor on 20 May 2002. Falintil leader Xanana Gusmão was president of the new nation, and the longtime leader of Fretilin Mari Alkatiri, who ran the organisation from exile in Mozambique, was prime minister.

Birth pangs
In December 2002, Dili was wracked by riots as years of poverty and frustration proved too much for the nascent democracy. The economy was in a shambles and people were ready for things to start improving – and fast. But without any viable industry or employment potential, East Timor was reliant almost entirely on foreign aid.
Only a small UN contingent remained in East Timor by mid-2005. As the number of outsiders shrank, the challenges of creating a new nation virtually from scratch became all too apparent. Government factions squabbled while the enormous needs of the people festered. By 2006 it was clear that too much had been expected too soon.

The future
East Timor will continue to rely on foreign money as it struggles to establish a viable economy.

Gas and oil deposits in the Timor Sea have the greatest potential to help East Timor’s economy to develop without the assistance of foreign aid. Proud of its image as a benefactor of East Timor, Australia was anything but in negotiations with the tiny country over revenues from the oil fields; through outright bullying, the Howard government tried to keep payments to East Timor negligible, despite the fact that it is one of the world’s poorest countries. Only perseverance on the part of the Timorese won them an agreement that will provide US$4 billion in the next few years and much more thereafter.

High in the hills above Dili is another resource: coffee. Some 50, 000 people work to produce the country’s sought-after arabica beans, noted for their cocoa and vanilla character. Shade-grown and mostly organic (because few farmers can afford fertilizers and pesticides), Timorese coffee is prized by companies such as Starbucks, and production is increasing.

East Timor’s tourism industry has great potential, although there needs to be a perception of stability for numbers to grow beyond the 1500 people who visit each year.

Turkmenistan Welcomes YOU!

2009-12-09T01:22:00.000-08:00

Turkmenistan’s dual persona is omnipresent. The lavish palaces in the capital, gold statues and marble monuments are as captivating as the deep mysticism and legend that hangs over pilgrimage sites and ancient ruins. This is a land that is at one time gripped by authority and yet overcome by spirituality.
Ancient cities like Merv, Dekhistan (also known as Misrian) and Konye-Urgench inspire visions of slow-moving caravans plodding along the ancient Silk Road. Remnants of their urban tissue are still there, slowly disintegrating under the weight of tribal warfare and time. The modern and manicured Ashbagat (otherwise known as the city of love) will give you another slant on Turkmen culture, while Eastern Turkmenistan's fertile plains and numerous historical sites make it a must. Nature-lovers will appreciate the haunting beauty of the Karakum (Black Sand) desert and the occasional quirks of coloured canyons, dinosaur footprints and burning gas craters.

The full Turkmen experience is ultimately about mingling with the Turkmen themselves, only a couple of generations removed from a nomadic lifestyle, they are a welcoming people whose hospitality is the stuff of legend. Proud of their heritage, women are seen decked out in colourful headscarves and ankle-length dresses decorated with Turkmen motifs. Everyone from young boys to aksakals (literally ‘white beards’, revered elders) will greet you warmly with a two-hand clasp and a slight bow.

Xenophobia runs deep in the upper echelons of Turkmen authority, a fact that constricts independent travel. Anyone with a tourist visa is required to hire a guide and despite hopes for change, the situation remains the same in this post-Niyazov era. While this may dampen your independent spirit, it is for now the only way to fully experience the country. Despite this inconvenience, Turkmenistan offers numerous off-beat experiences; you can overnight in a yurt, ride an Akhal-Teke horse or simply disappear for a few days into the desert wilderness.

Getting there & away
You can enter Turkmenistan by boat from Azerbaijan.

Land
Visitors with visas can enter Turkmenistan from all bordering countries, although the borders with Uzbekistan and Iran are the most frequently used. There are no international train or bus services to or from Turkmenistan at the present time. You should reckon at one to two hours for crossing the border at any point in the country (although three hours is not unheard of). All land borders are open from 9am to 6pm daily.

To/from afghanistan
Serkhetabat (formerly known as Gushgi) is the border town with Afghanistan. Crossing here is now a fairly hassle-free prospect, although be prepared to be thoroughly searched by both Turkmen and Afghan border guards. If you arrive late it’s OK to overnight with a local family as there are no hotels in town.
The border post is 3km south of Serkhetabat town. Leaving Turkmenistan, there’s a 1.5km walk to the first Afghan village of Torghundi and it’s a two-hour taxi journey onwards to Herat. If you are coming to Turkmenistan, you’ll need to catch a ride from Herat (US$20 in a shared vehicle) to Torghundi. Here you need to pay an US$11 customs fee at a bank in town (2km south of the border), or you might be able to pay an extra US$4 to the border guard to do this for you.
The Saparmurat border crossing near Kerki is used by UN staff, but was not recommended for independent travellers at the time of writing.

To/from iran
The simplest exit point is Gaudan/Bajgiran, due south of Ashgabat and a corridor between the Kopet Dag into Iran. From Ashgabat, take a taxi (US$10 to US$15) for the 20km ride to Yablonovka checkpoint. Here you’ll have your passport checked, after which you take a marshrutka shuttle to the border. Once through, it’s a taxi (US$2.50) across some 20km of no-man’s-land to Bajgiran where you can get buses or taxis (US$20, 4 hours) to Mashhad.
There are also borders with Iran at Saraghs (there is a Mashhad–Saraghs train, but no international trains into Turkmenistan) and Gudurolum (which is reachable by car or taxi only).

To/from kazakhstan
From Turkmenbashi there is a good road to Karabogas (formerly Bekdash), with spectacular views of the Caspian Sea and the Karabogas Basin. En route you cross a bridge that spans the 5km long channel which connects the Caspian Sea and the inland gulf. The distance between the bridge and Karabogas town is around 60km.
Karabogas is a nearly abandoned Soviet industrial city, filled with vacant apartment blocks gutted for anything usable. The city is surrounded by surreal-looking salt lakes; the remnants of a once profitable sodium sulphate business gone belly up. From here is a 40-minute drive to the border on a rough dirt track.

Marshrutki (US$40 per car) go from Turkmenbashi to the Kazakh border and continue to Zhanaozen (Novy Uzen), where there is further transport to Aktau. Delays at the border can occur when caravans of traders appear together. Rather than wait for all the taxis to get through, it might be faster to get a lift to the border, walk across and then look for another ride on the Kazakh side. You should be able to get a ride from the Kazakh border to Zhanaozen (US$50, two hours), with a little patience.
To/from uzbekistan

There are three crossings from Uzbekistan. Each crossing requires a walk of about 10 to 20 minutes across no-man’s-land. Shared taxis are sometimes available to shuttle travellers across; the cost of which ranges from US$0.50 to US$1. Whether they are operating or not when you visit is a matter of luck.

The Farab crossing is closest to Bukhara (Uzbekistan) and Turkmenabat (Turkmenistan). The 45-km taxi ride to Farab from Turkmenabat should cost US$4 to US$6 for a taxi (or US$0.50 for a seat in a shared taxi). From the border, take a taxi (US$8) to Bukhara, or hire a taxi as far as Uzbek Olot (or Qarakul), where you can change to a shared taxi.
The Dashogus crossing is best if you are headed for Khiva or Urgench. A taxi from Dashogus to the Uzbek border is not more than US$1. From the border to Khiva expect to pay around US$10.

Less used is the Khojeli crossing, a 10-minute taxi ride (US$1) from Konye-Urgench. Once across the border it’s a half-hour drive to Nukus in Karakalpakstan. A taxi from Konye-Urgench to the border is around US$1. From the border, take public transport to Khojeli (US$1) or a taxi all the way to Nukus (US$7).

Entering turkmenistan
On entering the country, it’s likely that your bags will be searched, although backpacks are rarely emptied – they prefer to use an X-ray machine. The numerous documents to be filled out are time consuming; pay close attention to the green Entry Travel Pass and the immigration card. There is also a customs declaration – list anything valuable you have with you and make sure it is stamped and that you keep a copy. On exit you’ll need to fill out a second one, but be ready to show the original as well. Upon exiting some travellers have been asked to show the pictures on their digital camera – this is not the time to be caught with a flash card full of bridges, airports, government buildings and military bases.
Air
The only international airport in Turkmenistan is Saparmurat Turkmenbashi Airport (37 84 11) in Ashgabat.

Getting around

Car & motorcycle
Driving through Turkmenistan is perfectly possible, but expensive and full of hassles. A carnet is not needed, although you’ll need to pay the following: US$30 transit fee; US$50 obligatory third-party liability insurance; US$2 bank fee; US$5 documentation fee; and US$10 for disinfection of your vehicle. Significantly, there’s also a road tax calculated by the kilometre for your route through the country.

Usually this totals around US$75 for cars and up to US$250 for larger vehicles. This effectively raises the cost of petrol (gas) from US$0.02 at the pumps to around US$1.50 in reality.

Driving in Turkmenistan is a veritable freestyle sport, with drivers weaving indiscriminately through traffic and drag racing off green lights – you can do nothing but adapt. The drivers of Mary are notoriously bad – even Ashgabat drivers avoid cars with Mary tags. One last warning: fines can be imposed if you enter a city with a dirty car; make sure your vehicle is spotless after hauling it across the desert.

Air
Turkmenistan Airlines serves most main cities with a fleet of new Boeing 717s. As the main hub, all flights go in and out of Ashgabat, with the exception of a four times weekly flight between Dashogus and Turkmenbasi. For locals, ticket prices are absurdly cheap, around US$1 to US$2 to fly anywhere. These prices also apply to Peace Corps volunteers, diplomats and anyone else with local residency. Tourists and non-residents, however, must pay for tickets using the official rate of 5200M = US$1 (you’ll have to show a bank receipt showing you changed money at the official rate).

Because seats are in high demand and sell out weeks in advance, you’ll probably have to buy a ticket from a travel agent anyway. Agents will hold onto tickets until the last minute, knowing some foreigners will have no choice but to pay the inflated prices.

Serenading South Korea

2009-12-09T01:01:00.000-08:00

How to capture the essence of this fascinating, complex nation? Social relations may be grounded in ancient Confucianism but South Korea is most decidedly a forward-thinking country thanks to its hurry-hurry approach to everything, an insatiable appetite for technological advancement and an indomitable can-do attitude. No one knows where the country is headed, but it’s fast-forward all the way. That’s what makes South Korea so exciting and at times unnerving; it’s a country of endless possibilities.

Seoul is where this is felt most keenly. There’s an infectious energy here and it’s easy to get caught up in the Korean joie de vivre, as well as the city's non-stop attractions. Less modern but no less appealing is the ancient city of Gyeongju, where temples, pagodas and royal tombs are a source of much fascination. Further south, the bustling port town of Busan is a little rough around the edges but rewards those travelers willing to persevere.

Few international travelers explore the countryside, which is a tragedy and a blessing. Serene Temples, picturesque mountains, lush rice paddies, unspoiled fishing villages and endless hiking opportunities are so far off the beaten track, it’s unlikely you’ll meet any Westerners (or even English speakers) on the road less travelled. Voyage to the remote, unspoilt islands of Dadohae Haesang National Park, or head to the charming backwater of Buyeo for its historic Baekje relics and lively covered market. For a somewhat less rural (and considerably more surreal) experience, there is Panmunjom & the DMZ Tour - the closest you can get to North Korea from its southern neighbour without being shot.

Come as an explorer, seek out adventure, cut your own trail. Challenge yourself and you may develop an appreciation for South Korea’s rich cultural tapestry and a newfound sense of personal freedom, the hallmarks of any truly great journey.

Weather
Korea has four very distinct seasons: spring from mid-March to the end of May; summer from June to August; autumn September to November; and winter from December to mid-March. Of course the actual weather doesn’t always fit these neat categories.

Temperatures vary hugely between midsummer and mid-winter, with August being very hot and sticky, while December and January are literally freezing. Winters in the north are colder than in the more southerly Busan or Jejudo. Heavy rainfall always arrives with the summer monsoon season (late June to mid-July).

When to go
Korea has four very distinct seasons, each with its own special characteristics. The best time of year to visit is autumn, from September to November, when skies are blue, the weather is usually sunny and warm and the forested mountainsides are ablaze with astonishing fall colours.

Spring, from April to June, is another beautiful season, with generally mild temperatures and cherry blossoms spreading north across the country in April. Camellias, azaleas and other plants and trees flower, but as with autumn, some days can be cold, so bring warm clothing.

Winter, from December to March, is dry but often bitterly cold, particularly in northern parts. Siberian winds drag January temperatures in most of the country (except Jejudo) to below zero. This is the time of year when you really appreciate ondol (underfloor heating) and oncheon (hot-spring spas) as well as the ubiquitous saunas and spicy soups. White snow on hanok (traditional house) roofs is very picturesque, and winter is the time for skiers, snowboarders or ice-skaters to visit.

Try to avoid peak summer, from late June to late August, which starts off with the monsoon season, when the country receives some 60% of its annual rainfall, and is followed by unpleasantly hot and humid weather. Although air-conditioning makes summers much more bearable these days, many locals flee the muggy cities for the mountains, beaches and islands, which become crowded, and accommodation prices double. There is also the chance of a typhoon or two.

Money & costs
South Korea is a developed country, but you can get by on a modest budget, although the ever-rising won (appreciating 10% a year against the US dollar) has been making the country more expensive for foreign visitors. Accommodation is always the main travel expense, and comfortable, en suite rooms cost around W30,000 (approximately US$33) in smart new motels or W5000 less in older-style yeogwan (motel). Top-end hotels are rare outside major cities, but their rack rates are generally heavily discounted to around W200,000 to W250,000. Midrange hotels are being squeezed by the new high-rise motels, and their normal W150,000 rates are sometimes discounted below W100,000.

Transport, Korean meals, alcohol, saunas and admission prices to sights and national parks are still relatively cheap, so careful-spending duos travelling around South Korea can manage on W70,000 a day, while W100,000 a day allows for some luxuries – classier rooms, more taxi rides and bulgogi (sliced beef) instead of samgyeopsal (sliced fatty pork). The ultra-thrifty could hope to reduce their costs to W50, 000 a day by staying in youth-hostel dormitories or rather grotty rooms, taking advantage of hospitable locals they meet, and living on a diet of gimbap (rice rolled in dried seaweed), bibimbap (vegetables, meat and rice) and ramyeon (instant noodles). Staying in Seoul is cheaper than touring the country. Splashing out on luxury hotels, top-class meals and duty-free shops ups the budget to W400,000 a day or more.

Money
The South Korean unit of currency is the won (W), which comes in W10, W50, W100 and W500 coins. Notes come in denominations of W1000, W5000 and W10,000. The highest-value note was worth about US$10 at the time of research, so be prepared to carry around a thick wad of notes. Banks in most high streets offer foreign exchange services (look for a ‘Foreign Exchange’ or currency sign), although changing money can take some time.

Tourist shops and hotels exchange money, but compare their rates and commissions with the banks before using their services. US dollars are the easiest to exchange but any major currency is accepted. Travellers cheques have a slightly better exchange rate than cash.

Don’t forget to reconvert any surplus won into another currency before you leave the country, as exchanging won outside Korea can be difficult or impossible. If you reconvert more than US$2000 worth of won at Incheon airport, you will have to show bank receipts to prove that you exchanged the money legally.

ATMs
Korean ATMs are a little strange. If you have a foreign credit card, you need to find an ATM with a ‘Global’ sign or the logo of your credit card company. NICE ATMs often accept foreign cards. Most Global ATMs have basic instructions in English and operate in units of W10,000.

ATMs can be found outside banks and post offices and inside deluxe hotels, subway stations and department stores. Restrictions on the amount of money you can withdraw vary from machine to machine; it can be below W300,000 per day, but many ATMs have a W700,000 limit. Another problem is that ATMs have time restrictions and most only operate between 9am and 10pm. If you can’t find one, Itaewon subway station (Line 6) has a Global ATM that has instructions in English, is open 24 hours and has a withdrawal limit of W300,000.

Credit cards
More and more motels, hotels, shops and restaurants in cities and tourist areas accept foreign credit cards, but there are still plenty of yeogwan, restaurants and small businesses that don’t. Be prepared to carry around plenty of cash, especially if you are touring around outside the main cities.

Introducing Madagascar

2009-12-09T00:25:00.000-08:00

Forget Hollywood fripperies, Madagascar is like no place else on earth. In fact, all things considered, it barely qualifies as part of Africa: the two are separated by hundreds of kilometres of sea and 165 million years of evolution – long enough for Madagascar’s plants and animals to evolve into some of the weirdest forms on the planet. Nowhere else can you see over 70 varieties of lemur, including one that sounds like a police siren, the world’s biggest and smallest chameleons, and the last stomping ground of the elephant bird, the largest bird that ever lived. Near Ifaty Ranomafana in Southern Madagascar you will see forests of twisted, spiny ‘octopus’ trees and in the west, marvel at the bottle-shaped baobabs, especially the Avenue du Boabab near Morondava. And be on the look out for the carnivorous pitcher plant found around Ranomafana, there are over 60 varieties of them. Not for nothing is Madagascar regarded as the world’s number one conservation priority.

And the people are no less interesting: arriving here some 2000 years ago along the Indian Ocean trade routes, they grow rice in terraced paddies, and speak a language that has more in common with their origins in Southeast Asia than with the African continent. Their culture is steeped in taboo and magic, imbuing caves, waterfalls, animals and even some material objects with supernatural attributes. Hill peoples live in traditional multistoried brick houses with carved balconies and, in some areas, dance with their dead ancestors in the ‘turning of the bones’ ceremony.

Getting there & away
Sea
It’s possible to travel to and from Madagascar by boat, but you will need plenty of time and determination. Travel is likely to be on cargo ships – unless you find a ride on a yacht as a crew member – so sleeping and eating conditions, combined with sometimes turbulent seas, can make it a rough trip.
Mombasa (Kenya) and the island of Zanzibar (Tanzania) are the main places to look for cargo boats to Madagascar. It’s also sometimes possible to find passage on a yacht heading from South Africa, Réunion or Mauritius to Madagascar.

Air
Intercontinental flights arrive at Ivato airport, 12km north of Antananarivo.
Air Madagascar is the national carrier, and with recent improvements to the fleet and service, is now relatively efficient.
The following airlines fly to and from Madagascar:
Air Austral (UU; 22 359 90; in French) Hub Saint-Dénis, Réunion. Flies in conjunction with Air

Mauritius.
Air France (AF; 23 230 23; ) Hub Paris Charles de Gaulle.
Air Madagascar (MD; 22 222 22; ) Hub Antananarivo.
Air Mauritius (MK; 22 359 90; ) Hub St Maurice.
Corsair (SS; 22 633 36; , in French) Hub Paris Orly.
Interair (D6; 22 224 06; )Hub Johannesburg.
Africa & the Indian Ocean
Madagascar is well connected with the Indian Ocean islands of Mauritius and Réunion, and reasonably accessible from mainland Africa.
Once you’re in Madagascar, Dodo Travel & Tours (22 690 36; ; Lalana Elysée Ravelomanantsoa), in Antananarivo, is a useful place to seek information about flights within this region.
The main hubs for flights to Madagascar are Johannesburg in South Africa and Nairobi in Kenya. There are flights several times weekly between Johannesburg and Antananarivo (about €500 return) on Interair, and twice weekly on Air Madagascar. Travel between Madagascar and Nairobi (about €500 return) generally works better if you purchase your ticket directly from Air Madagascar in Kenya or Madagascar.
Air Austral has regular flights between Réunion and Mauritius and Antananarivo (from €350 return) and Toamasina (from €350 return).

Asia
Air Madagascar has recently commenced a direct route from Antananarivo to Bangkok, Thailand. Air Mauritius has flights several times weekly from Singapore and Hong Kong to Mauritius, and South African Airlines flies regularly to Johannesburg from both cities. There are regular connections from Mauritius on Air Austral to Antananarivo, and from Johannesburg you can also connect with an Air Madagascar or Interair flight to Antananarivo.
It’s also easy to get flights on Kenya Airways from Hong Kong to Nairobi, from where you can connect to Madagascar.

Australia & New Zealand
There are no direct flights servicing Australia and Madagascar; the shortest (and often cheapest) route is to travel via Mauritius. Air Mauritius has weekly flights connecting both Melbourne and Perth with Mauritius from about A$1500 return. From Mauritius there are regular connections on Air Austral to Antananarivo.
Alternatively, Qantas and South African Airways both have flights connecting Sydney with Johannesburg from A$1600 return in the low season. From Johannesburg, you can connect with an Air Madagascar or Interair flight to Antananarivo. Try these agencies:
Flight Centre Australia (133 133; ); New Zealand(0800 233 544;)
STA Travel Australia (1300 733 035); New Zealand (0508 782 872; )

Europe
The main European hub for flights to/from Madagascar is Paris. Air Madagascar and Air France fly three to four times weekly between Paris and Antananarivo. Prices from Paris on both airlines usually start from about €1400 return.
It’s also possible to fly from many European capitals to Johannesburg, Nairobi, St-Denis (Réunion) or Port Louis (Mauritius), and from one of these cities to Antananarivo. The best connections are usually via Réunion or Mauritius, which are linked by Air Austral flights to Antananarivo (from €350 return), as well as by several flights weekly to other places in Madagascar. Contact one of the following agents to get you started:
Air Fare (020 620 5121; in Dutch) A well-respected Dutch travel agent.
Nouvelles Frontières (08 03 33 33 33; ) A good French option, with group tours to Madagascar.
OTU Voyages (0825 004 027; , in French) Has branches across France.
STA Travel UK (0870 1600 599; ); Germany (01805-456 422; , in German) International travel agent with plenty of other offices across Europe.
Trailfinders (020-7938 3939; ) Excellent, reliable UK travel agent with huge amount of experience.

USA & Canada
The cheapest way to fly from North America to Madagascar is generally via Paris. It may work out cheaper to get separate tickets – one from North America to Europe, and then a second ticket from Europe to Madagascar.
Another option is to fly from Atlanta or New York to Johannesburg, with a connection to Antananarivo. In the USA, the main travel agency specialising in Madagascar is Cortez Travel & Expeditions (800-854 1029; ). It has information on good-value airfares and can book Air Madagascar flights. The following companies might also be able to help:
Cheaptickets .A good source of online fares.
Flight Centre Canada (1 888 967 5355; centre.ca); USA (1866 WORLD 51)Contact it directly for fares.
STA Travel (800 329 9537;) Good deals to Paris.
Throw in a soupçon of pirate history, coastlines littered with shipwrecks, great regional cooking, some of the world’s longest place names, and unfailingly polite and friendly people, and you’ll experience a refreshing take on the overused ‘unique’ tag.

History
Archaeological evidence suggests that Madagascar was uninhabited until about 1500 or 2000 years ago, when the first Indo-Malayan settlers arrived in coast-hugging craft that skirted the Indian Ocean. They brought traditions such as planting rice in terraced paddies, Southeast Asian food crops and linguistic roots buried in the subcontinent. The migration accelerated in the 9th century, when the powerful Hindu-Sumatran empire of Srivijaya controlled much of the maritime trade in the Indian Ocean.

Travel Alert: The political situation is unpredictable in Madagascar and travellers should exercise caution. Refer to the BBC for news updates or the Safe Travel for current government warnings.

Re-Introducing Colorful Greenland

2009-12-06T05:14:00.000-08:00

'When you've seen the world there's always Greenland' goes the old travellers' saying. But why wait till then? Greenland is not a cheap destination, but few places combine such magnificent scenery, such clarity of light and such raw power of nature. Vast swaths of beautiful, unfenced wilderness give adventurers unique freedom to wander at will, whether on foot, by ski or by dogsled. With virtually no roads, transportation is expensive, but splurging on helicopter and boat rides is worth every penny. These whisk you over truly magnificent mountainscapes and glaciers or through some of the planet's most spectacular fjords. Greenland also offers world-beating but charmingly uncommercialised opportunities for sea kayaking, rock climbing and salmon fishing.

The world's biggest noncontinental island has the world's sparsest population. Nonetheless, scattered mainly along Greenland's west coast are dozens of photogenic little villages of colourfully painted wooden cottages, plus a few small towns as well as the capital, Nuuk Town (Godthåb). In the south there's an appealing sprinkling of emerald-lawned sheep farms.
Culturally, the unique blend of Inuit and Danish blood has produced a Greenlandic society all of its own. This sometimes discordant mix of ancient and modern combines seal hunting and dogsledding with Carlsberg and kaffemiks. While it has many underlying social problems, Greenland suffers negligible crime, and sensitive visitors with a passionate but unaggressive interest in local ideas will find a fascinatingly rich culture beneath the thick façade of Greenlandic taciturnity.

With an ever-improving network of tourist offices, and comfortable if unflashy mini-hotels and hostels, Greenland is no longer the sole reserve of plutocratic cruise-ship passengers. However you travel, it's wise to schedule a wide safety margin for unpredictable weather. Leave ample time in each destination to unwind, soak up the midnight sun, watch icebergs explode or be dazzled by the magic of the aurora borealis.

Make it happen
Ready to go?

If you’re after the highlights, consider skipping the lines with our recommended tours:
circum navigate Spitsbergen and its off-lying islands
explore the Norwegian Fjords and look for Polar Bears
look for the Orca in autumn
experience the coast of Greenland and the Scoresby Sund

The Illuminating Finland

2009-12-06T05:04:00.000-08:00

There's something pure in the Finnish air and spirit that's incredibly vital and exciting. Although socially and economically it is in the vanguard of nations, parts of the country remain gloriously remote; with the trendsetting modern capital of Helsinki counterbalanced by vast forested wildernesses in the north and east, like Lemmenjoki National Park and Oulanka National Park.

These wilds are perfect for treks among the pines and lakes in summer. And who'd have thought that so far north you could have such a summer? It's a golden, sunny season when Finland bursts into life with an explosion of festivals, good cheer and optimism. It's a time when the towns are buzzing, but it's also a time to head for the lakelands of Mikkeli & around and Lappeenranta. Sit on the veranda of a waterside wooden cottage and watch the summer sun shining low over the trees, and you'll have experienced one of Finland's ultimate treats; a real Nordic peace that eases the soul.

Winter, too, has a special charm here, and the best way of banishing those scary subzero temperatures is to get active. Every type of skiing and more goes on for months, but how about chartering a team of dogs or a snowmobile and heading out on a trek across the snowy wastes, lit by a beautiful, pale, winter sun? Catch the aurora borealis after your wood-fired sauna and you'll feel blessed by the universe. The Sámi, many of whom still make a living from the reindeer roaming the awesome Lapland expanses, once believed the northern lights to be the snow beaten from the tail of a giant fox spirit.

Finnish towns, too, have much to offer. Whether cosy wooden churches, avant-garde design, quirky museums or passionate Finnish rock music are your thing, you'll find them in abundance, as well as cafés warm with the smell of baking cinnamon, and boisterous nightlife - the latter particularly in chic, cultural Helsinki. Best of all, Finland is full of Finns, who tend to do their own thing and are much the better for it. Independent, loyal, warm and welcoming - they are a memorable people in an inspirational country

Traveling to Azerbaijan??

2009-12-06T04:50:00.000-08:00

Neither Europe nor Asia, Azerbaijan is an incredible tangle of contradictions and contrasts. It’s a fascinating nexus of ancient historical empires. Yet it’s also a new nation finding its feet as it emerges from a war-torn post-Soviet chrysalis on a petroleum-funded gust of optimism.

Surrounded by semi-desert on the oil-rich Caspian Sea, the nation’s cosmopolitan capital Baku is a dynamic boomtown, where flashy limousines and mushrooming skyscrapers sweep around a picturesque Unesco-listed ancient core. Yet barely three hours’ drive away lies an entirely different world: timeless villages clad in lush orchards from which shepherd tracks lead into the soaring high Caucasus mountains. Where Baku is multilingual and go-ahead, the provinces shuffle to the gently paced click of nard (backgammon) on tree-shaded teahouse terraces: women stay home, herds of cattle wander aimlessly across highways, and potbellied bureaucrats scratch their heads in confusion on finding that an outsider has wandered into their territory. Visiting the country takes creativity and imagination, as the tourist industry is at best ‘nascent’. Although there are plenty of rural ‘rest-zones’ for holidaying city folk, they cater mainly for locals who want to unwind with hefty feasts and family chats, so rarely provide any activities. Very few people outside Baku speak English, but the challenge is a great part of the appeal. So where to, then? Southern Azerbaijan is one of the country's more pleasant regions, both along the coast and inland: Lәnkәran is a quaint seaside town famed for its flowers, while Masalli & around makes a good entry point for exploring the Talysh mountains.
Northern Azerbaijan is where you'll find the Caucasus Mountains and the incredible village of Xinali, with its jaw-dropping views and traditional mountain culture. And for something completely different (in a country full of completely different travel experiences!), there's always the remote and intriguing enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh.

Re-Discovering Faroe Islands

2009-12-06T04:46:00.000-08:00

The forgotten Faroes are just a short flight from the UK, yet they’re way off the standard traveller’s radar. Adrift in the frothing swells of the north Atlantic, this mysterious 18-piece jigsaw puzzle of islands is at once ancient and very modern. Multicoloured cottages and grass-roofed wooden churches add focus to the grandly stark, treeless moorlands. Timeless networks of cairn-marked footpaths crisscross craggy layer-cake mountains. But even the tiniest once-inaccessible hamlets are now linked by a remarkable series of road-tunnels. And even as you bob around the dramatic fjords on a 70-year-old wooden sloop, your mobile phone is never likely to lose its signal.

The Faroes are a paradise for fell-walkers and ornithologists who accept the pyrotechnically unpredictable climate. Designer-mown by shaggy sheep, fields are blissfully bouncy under-foot. Pastures gleam with the greener-than-green hue of divine billiard tables. Peeping puffins, dive-bombing skuas and wheeling fulmars glide over dizzying chasms. Wave-battered headlands end in plunging cliffs that are as breathtaking as the wild winds that threaten to blow unwary hikers off them. Streymoy is the biggest island of the group, and home to the capital Tórshavn, as well as dramatic scenery galore and the unmissable bird cliffs of Vestmanna. While the Southern Islands aren't quite so dramatic in terms of landscape, islands like Suðuroy and Skúvoy are appealingly low on tourists and high on friendliness.

The proud, stoical Faroese character has been forged from Viking blood, Christian piety,Scandinavian openness and an awe for the humbling nature that’s all around. Few communities this small are so alive with art and the Faroes’ incredibly vibrant music scene is nothing short of astonishing. So even if the weather proves uncooperative, this self-assured little demi-nation is likely to surprise and delight even the most cynical traveller.

Magnificent Estonia

2009-12-06T04:38:00.000-08:00

Although the smallest of the Baltic countries, Estonia (Eesti) makes its presence felt in the region with its lovely seaside towns, quaint country villages and verdant forests and marshlands, all of which set the scene for discovering many cultural and natural gems. Yet Estonia is also known for magnificent castles, pristine islands and a cosmopolitan capital amid medieval splendour. It's no wonder Estonia is no longer Europe's best-kept secret.

Tallinn, Estonia's crown jewel, boasts cobbled streets and rejuvenated 14th-century dwellings. Dozens of cafés and restaurants make for an atmospheric retreat after exploring historic churches and scenic ruins, galleries and boutiques. By night, stylish lounges and youthful nightclubs offer a glimpse of the city's sexier side.

Some visitors have a hard time escaping Tallinn's undeniable allure, but outside the capital, the bucolic landscape hides numerous attractions. Lahemaa National Park in Northeastern Estonia has lush forests and beautiful coastal trails. South of Estonia's cosmopolitan spiritual centre, Tartu, is the hilltop town of Otepää with its laidback atmosphere and lovely ski trails. Handsome beach towns, spa resorts and medieval ruins lie scattered about the western shores of the country. Further west lies Estonia's biggest island, Saaremaa and on it the towns of Angla, Karja, Triigi & Tuhkana, where iconic windmills, 19th-century lighthouses, unspoilt beaches and yet more medieval ruins transport visitors to another time.

Covering vast swaths of Estonia, forests, wooded meadows and under-appreciated bog form the backdrop to numerous activities. Hiking over wooded trails, horse riding along coastline and canoeing over flooded forests can link you to the ancient wilderness. There's also great bird-watching, cross-country skiing in winter and swimming in crystal-clear lakes and rivers in summer. This all makes a nice prelude to a sauna, one of the national pastimes.

Mountainous Macedonia

2009-12-06T04:29:00.000-08:00

Mountainous Macedonia still has an air of mystery to it. Simultaneously ancient and brand new, it’s struggling to find its place in the postcommunist world. Black-clad Orthodox monks are just as much a part of this renewal as the hordes of teenagers, bedecked in the latest Italian fashions, sipping coffee in the stylish bars of the capital.

For outdoors types it’s a paradise. Its extensive wilderness allows ample opportunities for hikers, mountain climbers and skiers. Try the stunning Mavrovo National Park in Western Macedonia for the country's best skiing and some unforgettable alpine views. Meanwhile, ancient ruins will fascinate anyone with even a smidgen of interest in history, as will the amazing Sveti Naum monastery. The culturally-rich town of Ohrid is one of Macedonia's highlights, with its beautiful lake and spiritual significance; capital Skopje is a buzzing place where Eastern European stereotypes and unexpected attractions coexist with intriguing results. In short, for a little place it’s crammed with something for just about everyone.Quite apart from Macedonia’s spectacular peaks, lakes and rivers, it’s the hospitality of the people of this most southern of Slavic nations that will make your visit truly memorable.

Golden Ukraine

2009-12-06T04:24:00.000-08:00

For those of you who came in late, in 2004 there was a popular revolution in Ukraine. And while that Orange-clad uprising failed to leave the nation basking in a happily-ever-after future, it was a revolution that, contrary to the famous dictum, didn’t eat its children.

The map remains the same, with the awe-inspiring, monumental capital of Kyiv at its heart, irrepressible Odesa and striking Crimea on its southern shores, plus cosy central-European Lviv near rolling western hills. Several years down the track, the industrial, pro-Russian east has forgotten its threat to secede.

Nonetheless, the Ukraine you’re visiting today is not the country that previously existed. ‘Post-Orange Ukraine’ might have the political blues as successive parliamentary stalemates drag out, but its press is freer, its attitudes more open and its economy improving. Memories of demonstrating on ‘the maydan’ (Kyiv’s Independence Square) still fuel increased civic awareness. There’s fledgling democracy instead of autocracy, fair elections and a tolerance of genuine public debate. At the same time, the unfulfilled promises of a weakened president have injected a sense of realism, if not cynicism

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Ukraine, whose name means ‘borderland’, is slowly, and sometimes indecisively, shifting. You still frequently encounter the surly, unhelpful bureaucracy that reigned when this was part of the Soviet Union, but now it’s tempered by widespread aspirations to eventually join the EU. The younger generation, central to the Orange Revolution, are looking forward and revelling in newfound freedoms. Traditionalists, meanwhile, are concerned about floating too far out of neighbouring Russia’s orbit.

A patchwork nation, as contemporary pundits like to call it, Ukraine draws on numeroushistorical influences, and as a patchwork nation it’s searching for unifying 21st-century symbols. The dominant culture is Slavic, but Scythian gold is still hoarded in the history museum at Kyiv’s Kievo-Pecherska Lavra (Caves Monastery) and Byzantine mosaics line the capital’s St Sophia’s Cathedral.

The golden domes of myriad Russian and Ukrainian Orthodox cathedrals gleam out across one of Europe’s poorest nations. Yet, among the rocky outcrops of fascinating Crimea, you’ll also find Turkic architecture, not to mention ancient cave cities. The country’s marauding Cossacks are remembered on the Dnipro River’s Khortytsya Island, as well as in musical and dance rituals.
Not all Ukrainians get an equal (duck-) kick out of all these traditions. The Russian-speaking east, centre and south might take pride in Cossack history, but the Ukrainian-speaking west of the country lionises the native Hutsul culture of the Carpathians, while the Crimean Tatars are making a comeback on their homeland peninsula.

So any success that post-Orange Ukraine achieves is a building-block towards a new national identity. By hosting the Eurovision song contest in 2005, abolishing most visas to welcome more overseas tourists, being chosen to co-host the European Football Championships in 2012 and even angling for the 2018 Winter Olympics, this once-overlooked country hopes to show off its increasing capabilities to the world.

Meanwhile, it wants to prove them to all Ukrainians, too.

Discovering Latvia.

2009-12-06T04:05:00.000-08:00

If you're yearning to hit Europe's untrodden jackpot, cash in your chips in Latvia (Latvija). Still undiscovered by the tourism masses, this sizzling Baltic sexpot is poised to become the continent's next A-list star. A country in transition, hellbent on shedding its stalwart old-Soviet image, the Latvia of today is vibrant, enigmatic and altogether mesmerising. Refreshingly unpretentious, Latvia manages to tantalise even the most jaded traveller. Many arrive expecting little and leave overwhelmed, certain they've uncovered long-buried treasure.Bustling Rīga, with its pumping nightlife, cobbled streets and marvellous art-nouveau architecture is one of Eastern Europe's most fun cities. Away from the capital, the pace slows. Historic villages, miles from anywhere, sit frozen in time. Despite growing popularity,

Latvia is still one of those places where you can embrace the unbeaten path and become an intrepid adventurer exploring virgin terrain. From crumbling castles in Sigulda, to Jūrmala and its alluring resorts on the edge of the ice-blue Baltic Sea, it's very easy to just get away. Summer is an especially magical time - twilight comes near midnight and by 4am it's light again. After long, dark winters, Latvians seem determined to soak up as much light as possible and the whole country exudes a frenetic, turbocharged energy. Beer gardens pop up in even the smallest villages and revellers slug pints well into the night. Its natural offerings are also a drawcard, like Gauja National Park in Eastern Latvia, a pine-scented paradise.

It's hard to believe this tiny, vivacious nation shed its Russian stranglehold less than two decades ago because, despite years of intense suffering under Soviet and Nazi occupations, Latvia has a serenity and charm rarely found elsewhere in Europe.

This is Latvia's moment. Visit before everyone else does.

Introducing Norway

2009-12-06T03:51:00.000-08:00

Norway is a country at a crossroads, although given Norway’s natural wonders and significant wealth, it’s a situation in which most countries in the world would love to find themselves.

Norway is, by any standards, one of the most beautiful countries on earth, but that beauty brings with it a responsibility that weighs heavily upon Norwegians. For here is a people with an enduring love for the natural world that is profoundly etched into the national character. In the past, this was expressed in the

Norwegian tradition of isolated farmsteads that colonised the most secluded corners of the country’s wilderness. Increasingly, however, the irrevocable movement of Norwegians towards the cities – cities that are themselves places of great beauty, such as Bergen, Trondheim, Stavanger and Tromsø – has altered the relationship between Norwegians and their natural world. But one thing remains unaltered: to paraphrase that great Norwegian son, Henrik Ibsen, those who wish to understand Norwegians, must first understand Norway’s magnificent but severe natural environment, for these are a people of the land, perhaps more so than any other Europeans.

Wilderness in Norway has become more of a leisure pursuit, an idea that Norwegians embrace, escape to and explore with great fervour. Nowhere is this more evident than in the country’s national parks – shining symbols of thenation’s desire to protect the environment as much as they are showpieces of Norway’s peerless landscapes and otherworldly natural grace. At the same time, Norwegians worry about their impact upon the environment, over the consequences of global warming for the country’s glaciers and Arctic ecosystems, and about Norway’s contributions to this decline and the decline of wilderness the world over due to their massive oil reserves and exports.

And then there are the trials of living in one of the richest countries on earth. Norwegians are burdened with a highly developed social conscience that manifests in far-reaching promises to reduce greenhouse gases, in using its astonishing oil wealth to promote ethical investment abroad and in committing itself to a foreign-aid budget that puts most countries to shame. Where things get complicated is at home, leading to anguished national debates over rising immigration, over the incremental loss of Norway’s cultural heritage and over the effects of being cosseted by what is arguably the world’s most generous and enlightened welfare system. The country is also divided over whether Norway can continue to go it alone by staying outside the EU, or whether it really should play its part in building a more prosperous and united Europe.

It’s not that you’ll find many Norwegians complaining about their lot. Nonetheless, you will encounter, again and again, a people wondering about their place in the world.

The top 10 countries for 2010

2009-12-06T03:22:00.000-08:00

To start with a bang, here’s our list of the ten hottest countries for next year – and why.

El Salvador
El Salvador sneaks up on you: in lefty lounge bars in San Salvador, at sobering war memorials and museums, and along lush cloud-forest trails; it’s a place of remarkable warmth and intelligence, made all the more appealing for being so unexpected. Travellers tend to skip El Salvador, wooed by marquee destinations such as Guatemala and Costa Rica, and unnerved by stories of civil war and gang violence. But the war ended almost 20 years ago, and crime, while serious, is almost exclusively played out between rival gangs; tourists are virtually never involved. And though El Salvador has fewer protected areas than its neighbours, you get them practically to yourself – including pristine forests, active volcanoes and alpine lakes.

Germany
Some countries are simply allowed to be, but Germany has had to reinvent itself more times than Madonna. And it has done so again since 1990, when reunification brought an end to more than four decades of division (thanks for the correction, conetop!). In year 20 after its latest rebirth, Germany is still a country where you can witness history in the making. Head to Hamburg, where an entire new quarter is being wrested from the detritus of a 19th-century harbour. Or to Dresden, where the domed Frauenkirche church is once again the diamond in the shining tiara that is the city’s famous skyline. And, of course, to Berlin, whose climate of openness spawns more creative experimentation than a Petri dish on Viagra.

Greece
Seldom does a travel destination satisfy the blurbs that shout ‘has something for everyone’ - but Greece truly does. Whether you’re there to poke around ancient ruins, soak in the sun on idyllic beaches, or party till you drop, Greece will leave you clamouring for more.It’s guilt-free travel – a slice of history served alongside a healthy slice of hedonism – and everyone seems happy. You get to marvel at the dazzling clarity of the light and the waters, the floral aromas that permeate the air, the pervading sense of spirit – and then sit down to contemplate it all while consuming that great Greek combination of ouzo and octopus!

Malaysia
Malaysia often gets criticised as being mild in comparison with its grittier neighbours, Thailand and Indonesia. It’s true, natural disasters and coups only seem to happen across its borders, the roads don’t have too many potholes, buses and trains have air-con and plush seats, and hotels are of international standard. While troubles are few, visiting Malaysia lets you leap into the jaws of one of the most interesting parts of Southeast Asia’s roaring cultural smorgasbord – and not be too worried about it. Cheap connections to Europe and great exchange rates mean that you won’t get eaten up by your wallet either.

Morocco
‘Hello, bonjour, salaam alaykum, labes?’ Street greetings sum up everything you need to know about Morocco in a word: it’s Berber and Arab, Muslim and secular, Mediterranean and African, worldly wise and welcoming. Morocco sees how the Middle East is portrayed via satellite news and the internet, and is as concerned with violent threats and abuses of power as anyone else in the modern world. But as you’ll see, most Moroccans are plenty busy working to get by, get their kids through school and greet the king’s planned 10 million visitors by 2010 with the utmost hospitality. Every visitor helps Moroccans realise these goals by creating new economic opportunities, and can make a Moroccan’s day by returning the greeting: ‘Hello, good day, may peace be upon you, are you happy?’

Nepal
But for the Himalaya, Nepal would probably be stuck in the shadow of India – but it’s hard to cast a shadow on a country that includes the highest point on earth, the summit of Mt Everest. Over the last decade, Nepal has seen its share of troubles, but 2008 was a watershed year – the rebels became the government, the kingdom became a republic and the king became a civilian. With the fall of the monarchy, the sound of temple bells has replaced the stomp of army boots and peace has returned to Shangri-La.

New Zealand
Recommending New Zealand’s too obvious, right? You’re looking for something a bit edgier, under the radar or further off the beaten track. But there’s wisdom in the old saying, ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fi x it’, and last time we checked the land of Maori and hobbits certainly didn’t need repairing. NZ’s checklist of essential experiences remains as strong as ever. Spectacular landscapes abound, from sea-level rainforests to plunging glaciers, geothermal springs and barren volcanic plains. Add a hearty pinch of lens-friendly wildlife, proud Maori culture, and fine food and drink, and it’s easy to see why the natives are so chilled.

Portugal
Skirting along the southwestern edge of the Iberian Peninsula, the once-great seafaring nation of Portugal today straddles two very different worlds. For purists, this is a land of great tradition, of saints-day festivals where ox-drawn carts still lumber through flower-strewn streets, and ancient vineyards bring sleepy medieval villages to life during the annual harvest. Meanwhile, in other parts of the country, something decidedly more modern is transpiring. Old city centres, long ago abandoned by the young and upwardly mobile in favour of the suburbs, are slowly being revitalised. A new wave of boutiques, art galleries and cafes are finding new homes in once crumbling old buildings, and locals are beginning to rediscover the allure of vibrant downtown areas.

Suriname
South America’s smallest country, both in area and population, is easily one of its most diverse. Some three quarters of Suriname’s people are descended from Chinese, Javanese and Indian labourers that arrived in the 18th century, and West African slaves in the 17th. Add indigenous Amerindians and Lebanese, Jewish and Dutch settlers, and you have the makings for a lot of ethnic tension, right? Fortunately, wrong. Suriname is known for its peacefully coexisting cultures, most emblematically represented by the country’s biggest mosque and synagogue situated side by side in the capital Paramaribo. With everyone speaking different languages, celebrating different holidays and worshipping in different temples, visiting Suriname is really like hitting several countries at once.

USA
Suddenly the USA is cool again! Be it from Barack Obama, Abraham Lincoln’s 200th birthday last year, or just tightened budgets during the recession, but more Americans (even hipsters) are looking backwards – and foreigners too – and taking in traditional American historical sites, beginning with Washington DC’s freebie zone of museums and heroic monuments.

Santa Barbara California - Scenic Santa Barbara

2009-12-06T02:44:00.001-08:00

Alias, the American Riviera.

A blanket of fog cloaks the Pacific with a mystical veil and permeates the palms that line the sandy beach-boulevard. As soon as the morning mist dissipates, the distant powder playground will become a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts and bikini-clad sun worshippers. Surfers and sailors will skim the oncoming waves, while fishermen search for habitants beneath. And while volleyballs rally over sugar fine sand, the paralleling pathway will become a thoroughfare for cyclists, in-line skaters, and those out for a casual stroll.

Santa Barbara’s scalloped coastline is just one of the many splendid vistas offered from the lookout tower of the city’s courthouse. In fact, from this heaven-bound podium I’m privy to a three hundred and sixty degree view that zooms in on the many tourist treasures.
Pearl Chase Park is one of these gems. This luscious green belt is sandwiched between Cabrillo Boulevard and the pounding Pacific, and every Sunday beneath swaying palms the verdant strip becomes a bustling hub for art lovers. Over one hundred artists display their wealth of talents in the form of pottery, paintings, weavings, carvings, and sculptures.

A fortune of a different kind waits a short distance to the south. Even though the landmark looks just like an elevated bluff from my skyscraper stance, a nearby onlooker claims there’s enough money in the hill to sink a ship. "The translation of Montecito is small mound," he informs, "but ironically you need large mounds to live there. So large, that the locals call it Moneycito." One will discover that Julia Roberts, John Travolta, and Oprah are just a few of the superstars who pay the exorbitant taxes for their multi million dollar mansions.

Although the price of most homes doesn’t compare to those on Montecito’s turf, Santa Barbara is ranked one of the top ten most expensive American cities in which to live. Nestled between San Francisco and Los Angeles, it’s a destination that’s rich in diverse pleasures and attractions. As well as the miles of sun-drenched shoreline, its natural beauty stems from the Santa Ynez Mountains backdrop, year-round sunshine, and Spanish Colonial architecture that imbibes its colorful past.

The décor of the courthouse where one is perched truly epitomizes the term Spanish California. A trail of terra cotta leads the way through its main floor halls that flaunt giant murals, hand painted ceilings and closed doors where active courts are in session. Sunken lawns and lush tropical plants encircle its perimeter and provide a picturesque setting for concerts, festivals and weddings.

One's view stretches beyond these manicured gardens to the east, where rolling hills are topped with adobe homes. Their whitewashed exteriors and red tiled roofs glisten beneath the sun, and thriving courtyards brim with a profusion of hibiscus and bougainvillea. Touches of wrought iron embellish archway facades, citrus trees unite with sprawled out figs, and all reside under the dominance of the auspicious palm.

Firmly planted on higher ground is the historical hallmark that has been deemed 'the soul of the city.' The twin-towered beauty of Mission Santa Barbara proudly hovers on the hill, flaunting a combination of Roman and Spanish mission styles.

It was founded in 1746 to protect and convert local Chumash Indians into Catholics and is still used by the Franciscan order today. A rose garden hosting over 1500 blooms flourishes in its foreground and an adjacent cemetery pays homage to the several thousand Native Americans whose labor made the original mission possible. Other cultural jewels integrate with the city’s modern day gems, and although I enjoy viewing them from above, many check them out on a trolley tour or on foot.

The twelve-block Red Tile Walking Tour is a self-guided trek that provides a blast from the past. It trails by numerous heritage landmarks, including the Museum of Art that boasts the impressive works of German and French expressionists, the Lobero Theater, where the Grand Opera Association shares its talent, and El Presidio, that has existed on the premises since 1782.
Bisecting this step back in time is the pulsating hub of State Street where the modern day bustle pumps like percolating adrenaline. Red tiles pave the way down this lush tree-lined lane to unite upscale shops with a generous share of the town’s five hundred restaurants and bars. Dining options range from informal to fine cuisine, and mouth-watering specialties are paired up with vintages that flow from more than sixty regional wineries.

In the 1930s, this popular pier had been used as a floating casino. Then during WWII it had operated as a naval base. Today, it’s the oldest functioning wharf in California and hosts over five million annual visitors.

You will visualize the busy boardwalk where quaint shops, seafood cafes and overflowing markets sell everything from souvenirs to sizzling shrimp. Gulls soar above, sea lions splash below, and when the clouds clear, the neighboring sandy strip, magically transforms into a beehive of activity. It’s an energized city with sophistication and class, yet the feel is relaxed and laid back.
And from one's promontory perch, one can appreciate why scenic Santa Barbara has been coined the American Riviera.

Where To stay :
Inn of the Spanish Garden915 Garden StreetSanta Barbara, California, USA 93101Phone: 805-564-4700Toll Free: 866-564-4700

San Diego Comic Convention - Fun Galore

2009-12-06T02:44:00.000-08:00

A veritable gold mine of things to see and do in the world of comic books.

The San Diego Comic Convention is THE event for lovers of comic books, sci-fi and popular culture. More than 45,000 people attended last year, with many expected to return and even more new faces to add to those numbers. Still, the Comic Con is unknown to many. Until now.

Those whose interest lies in comic books, there is a veritable gold mine of things to see and do. Displays by numerous publishers in the United States offered visitors a wide selection from which to choose. On hand were a wide variety of comic book artists signing their books and answering their fans’ questions, and panels covered every aspect of comics production, including drawing and coloring.
The Convention Center was also filled with displays by card and toy manufacturers, a huge gaming area and popular film studios. Screenings of 49 feature films throughout the day made the Comic Con a movie buff’s dream, allowing visitors to visit various attractions and even to catch a movie.
Opening night included sneak previews of new movies - The Klumps, Hollow Man, and The Specials. Featurettes of The Cell and The Lord of the Rings were shown during panels, and questions from the audience were encouraged.
Many celebrities, such as the cast of the TV show Invisible Man, Kevin Smith, Erin Grey and many others were present on the Autograph deck, signing memorabilia and meeting their fans.
The Comic Con is a popular attraction for gamers, with areas for people to try new games, and have fun playing their old favorites, and a game competition proved a favorite attraction for many visitors in the year 2000.
Bringing the kids is also not a problem at the San Diego Comic Convention, where there are several displays devoted to a younger audience. Included are panels discussing children’s’ cartoons shows, booths dedicated to kid’s comic books, and gaming. What fun it was for the kids to have their pictures taken with costumed characters such as Spider Man. One very popular panel discussed the cartoon show, Futurama, which included a showing of episodes from the upcoming season. Warner Brothers was on hand with a panel featuring a never before seen Animaniacs cartoon, with gifts offered to the attendees.
Special guests represented all areas of comic books and popular culture during the 2000 Comic Con. Producer Bryan Singer held a panel on X-Men, and this included outtakes, audience questions and surprise guest Sir Ian McKellen (Magneto). Director Paul Verhoven conducted a panel on the upcoming movie Hollow Man, complete with information as to how the movie was made, after which he fielded many questions from the audience. He also signed posters and gave away goodies - Hollow Man key chains and trailer CD’s. Ken Smith, creator of Mallrats and Clerks, held a panel to discuss his future projects, and show the final episode of the animated Clerks series, not as yet seen.
Comic Con in 2001 runs July 19-22 and promises to be even more exciting than before. Themes for this season include the 100th Birthday tribute to Cark Barks, 60th Anniversary of Captain America, 60th Anniversary of Wonder Woman, 40th Anniversary of the Fantastic Four, 10th Anniversary of Bone, and the Lord of the Rings. Special guests confirmed include Henry Boltinoff, John Buscema, Julie Douchet, Gene Ha, Judd Winick, Will Eisner, Michael Chabon and Bernie Wrightson.
You will see figures of a bygone age engraved into the buildings’ facades and think of generations standing on the shoulders of generations. This is Paris, and the distillation of all this culture effervesces from the shapes and textures of the city’s face.
Popular attractions featured again this year include the 13th annual Will Eisner Comic Industry awards and a Masquerade competition. This will include prizes and trophies. This is one feature which makes Saturday night at the Comic
The nearby open air mall, Horton Plaza, provides a place to grab a bite to eat, do some shopping or catch a movie only blocks away. The convention center is ideally located in downtown San Diego and is close to the ocean as well as other coveted destinations such as Sea World and the San Diego Zoo.
At only sixty dollars for a four-day adult pass, the Comic Con is an inexpensive way to have an amazing time. Transportation is included for those who purchase passes, and tour buses run every fifteen minutes offering great service to guests. Tickets are available for purchase in advance by mail or online at http://www.comic-con.org for even greater discounts. Volunteer opportunities are also available for those who wish to receive a free pass.
With all these features, the San Diego Comic Convention is indeed a treat for all.

Hanoi

2009-12-06T02:31:00.000-08:00

Adventure in Vietnam .

On the ride into Hanoi from the airport, cars toot continuously at seas of bicycles, while women in rice-paddy-hats and men in olive-green pith helmets pedal old-fashioned bikes loaded with everything from pigs to produce to pottery.

Vietnam is on the brink of change. As the amount of traffic increases, the tunnel of trees lining the narrow main streets will inevitably be replaced with parking spaces. No longer will one be able to wander the main streets, stopping for a few minutes to see a craftsman squatting in the doorway of his shop making tin ware. Women preparing and selling food on the street will be replaced by fast food restaurants, and gone will be the barber clipping hair on the sidewalk.

The last vestiges of “old” Hanoi will probably be the “cyclo” drivers who only serve tourists, preserved to provide “local color.”

The best way to get to know Hanoi is on foot, where everyday street life can feel like theater. Some may prefer to rent a cyclo or the day, while the adventurous—or those with a death wish—may want to rent a motor bike.

Vietnam is one of the last remaining communist countries. Even though there are cracks in the system, strict communism is still the order of the day. Hundreds of people line up daily to see Ho Chi Minh on his deathbed in the manner of Lenin. Even though the Ho Chi Minh and the Army museums try to keep the memory of the Vietnam War alive, most citizens seem to have put the war behind them—more than half of Vietnamese people alive today were born after the war.

Hanoi’s best-preserved ancient site is Van Mieu, or the Temple of Literature. Dating from the 11thcentury, it’s the oldest institution of higher education in Vietnam. Dedicated to Confucius, it educated mandarins (high court officials) for more than 700 years. Today, musicians play in its courtyard, adding to the ambiance.

To visit Hanoi is to see Asia as it was decades ago. The people are gracious, the food is excellent, and the prices are rock bottom. Signs of the tourist boom, which the Vietnamese have been hoping for, are everywhere, which means that now, when it remains antithetically Vietnamese, is the time to visit.

Kuala Lumpur - A Cultural Feast

2009-12-06T01:35:00.000-08:00

Colors of Malaysia Festival is just the start.

The buildings and trees flanking Merdeka Square in Kuala Lumpur glitter with thousands of tiny lights as the crowd waits with anticipation.

The opening ceremonies of Malaysia’s most spectacular event, Citrawarna 2000 or “Colours Of Malaysia” are about to commence. Timed to coincide with the King of Malaysia’s 74thbirthday celebrations, this is the first Citrawarna of the new millennium-an extravaganza of folk dances, traditional music and a parade of floats from Malaysia’s 13 states and the federal territory of uala Lumpur.

The band break into a spirited rendition of the national anthem to the backdrop of fireworks splaying across the night sky, and the gala begins. For the next three hours, you will be held spellbound as Merdeka Square becomes a shifting kaleidoscope of dancers in shimmering traditional costumes and elaborate head-dresses, martial arts performers, drummers and choristers. Chinese dragons, bullock carts and painted peacocks dip and be swayed, followed by a display of enormous, intricately decorated kites from Kelantan.

Folk dancers from Perak pound and stomp rice grains in a traditional Belotah performance, Indian classical themes are enacted by actors with elaborate make-up and kohl-rimmed eyes, and a tribal group from Sarawak whirls on stilts to the beat of drums. The color-splashed finale with all 4000 performers bowing to a wildly cheering audience, is a fitting culmination of our stay in Kuala Lumpur, a visit crammed with visual and sensory overload.
One might come to Malaysia with stereotypical images of a third-world country: crowded narrow streets, beggars, litter and noisy traffic.

But you will be wrong.

Kuala Lumpur is as sophisticated as any Western capital city. Orderly traffic flows along arterial six-lane freeways, public transport is fast and convenient, landscaped parks dot the cityscape, sidewalks are meticulously clean, and there is no evidence of anything remotely resembling a skid row neighborhood in the city core. There are no pan-handlers, hucksters, drug peddlers (the death penalty is rigidly enforced), and in a country where Islamic law is stern, there are no visible drunks on the streets.

Yet, for all that, Islam here isn’t as restrictive as in the Middle East. Women, clad in flowing Baju Kebayas with flowered scarves draped over their heads, play a prominent role in the city’s work-force. Nightclubs, pubs and trendy discotheques pound rock music and seethe with activity into the wee small hours, and the entertainment scene encompasses theatre performances, art gallery exhibitions and a variety of concerts from traditional to jazz. The magnificent Dewan Filharmonik Petronas Hall showcases the best in Western classical music.

KL’s architecture is no less stunning: mosques with onion-shaped Moorish domes, a national theatre with a blue winged roof—a smaller version of Sydney’s Opera House—and futuristic glass and concrete skyscrapers.

The 452-meter-high Petronas Twin Towers soaring against the city skyline like a gleaming steel-banded candelabrum. Currently the world’s tallest free-standing structures, they were built with oil money by the government-owned Petronas Corporation. The Twin Towers incorporate geometric designs symbolizing unity, harmony, stability and rationality, all important facets of Islam. In that sense the Towers are a fitting symbol for Kuala Lumpur whose slick exterior overlays Malaysia’s traditional Muslim culture.
Nowhere is the diversity of Malaysia’s people (Malay, Chinese and Indian) so evident as in KL’s street stall cuisine. One can tuck into Malaysian skewered, marinated and grilled chicken satays with lashings of peanut sauce and onions, Chinese spicy noodles, sweet and sour fish wrapped and steamed in banana leaves, Indian roti, and nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk and served with anchovies, squid, eggs, cucumber and chili paste).

And let’s not forget the shopping.

Apart from a bewildering number of expensive, upscale shopping malls, Chinatown after 7.30 p.m. is a bargain hunter’s paradise. The street is closed to vehicular traffic, and I shoulder my way through narrow, thronged aisles flanked by booths offering “genuine fake” Gucci and Rolex watches, name-brand T-shirts, pirated software, CDs, electronic gadgetry, leather goods and jewelry.

Music blares, hawkers bawl or whisper seductively,“Best price, I give you, Madam, come look, look...” The heady smells of durian, mango, pineapple and sizzling spices all hang thickly on the humid night air. In the words of the haunting Citrawarna anthem, this is “truly Asia,” except that in fastidiously clean Kuala Lumpur, even the tap water is safe to drink.
Getting There:

Cathay Pacific and Singapore Airlines fly to Kuala Lumpur from Vancouver (check with your travel agent for fares/schedules).
Malaysian Airlines (1-800-552-9264) offers superb service and excellent cuisine on their daily flights out of Los Angeles.
Highlights: The fabulous Colours of Malaysia month-long festival takes place twice a year in May and September. Other worthwhile attractions in KL: The National Art Gallery, National Monument, National Theatre and the 91.6 hectare Lake Gardens with their amazing collection of orchids, hibiscus, butterflies, and birds.

Luxury Travel Thailand - Living in the Lap of Luxury

2009-12-06T01:25:00.000-08:00

The Regent Bangkok .

Regent Bangkok has unveiled a new Regent Club facility, claimed to be the only “executive club” in the industry with 24-hour service.

Wolf Hengst, president of Regent International Hotels, mentioned once : “This new hospitality concept redefines the luxury benchmark for executive club accommodations. Our concept offers much more than free breakfast and cocktail hour. The Regent Club provides an exceptional level of highly personalized service in a responsive environment.”

Guests pay a $40 premium for the Regent Club services, which include 24-hour concierge and business center services, special check-in and out, unlimited pressing on arrival, full daily breakfast and evening cocktails and hors d’oeuvres.

The Regent Bangkok, located across the street from a golf course and racetrack, is an elegant oasis with a large swimming pool. If you want to get an idea of how Bangkok is growing, just go for a swim, lie on your back and you’ll see half a dozen construction cranes all around.

Inside the hotel, however, the 363 rooms are quiet and spacious. A $20 million refurbishment has just been completed giving the marbled bathrooms a separate glass-enclosed shower and good-sized tub. A new category, the junior suite, has been added, which offers a teak walk-in wardrobe, two double-sized beds, handcrafted teak TV cabinet and generous sitting area and desk. Suites are accented with silks from the famous Jim Thompson company and unique Thai appointments.

The hotel has five restaurants including the very popular Thai restaurant, the Spice Market. A fleet of new Mercedes limousines allows for comfortable journeys through Bangkok’s infamously congested traffic.

Regent International Hotels also operate luxury hotels and resorts in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Taipei, Sydney, Fiji and Los Angeles. The Regent Resort Chiang Mai, a boutique resort in northern Thailand, opened last year, and the Regent Jakarta, which also has a Regent Club, is the newest property. Rates at the Regent Bangkok start at $225. The booming capital of Thailand is a busy destination for vacation and business travelers from around the world.

India Travel - The Taj Mahal

2009-12-06T00:50:00.001-08:00

The Taj Mahal lives up to its reputation.

Say the word “India” and an image immediately surfaces:a gleaming marble building surmounted by a dome and four soaring minarets. It is, of course, one of the world’s most recognized landmarks - the Taj Mahal.

In the misty pre-dawn light, the city of Agra is just beginning to stir. At the entrance to the Taj Mahal the murmur of our conversation dies as the gates swing open. It is a moment so over-laden with expectation that you'll almost be prepared for an anticlimax: the disappointment of discovering that the Taj is just another over-photographed cliché.

And then you will get your first look at it. It glimmers, framed by the entrance archway - pure white marble perfection, floating against a violet-streaked sky. Ten minutes later, the sun rises abruptly over the horizon, and the Taj is transformed from virginal paleness to a bridal-like glowing translucence. Its minarets, cupolas and dome blush rose-pink, and the semi-precious stones inlaid into its mosaic designs, glint and sparkle seductively. Even the intrusive clicking of cameras cannot rob the Taj of its ethereal loveliness at that moment. And no photograph can capture the dreamlike serenity of the morning with parrots lazily screeching in the surrounding mango groves, the sky burgeoning into blueness and the Jumuna river flowing languidly below the Taj pavilion balustrades.

Flashback three centuries, to an era when the powerful Moghul Empire was at its zenith and Shah Jehan, the fifth Moghul Emperor, was the supreme ruler of two-thirds of the Indian subcontinent. Persian and European ambassadors stood awe-struck at the splendour of his court, its sumptuous furnishings, the gold-leaf and jewelled inlay work embellishing his Hall of Public Audience and the Emperor’s enormous entourage of courtiers, servants, slaves and soldiers. And the seductive charms of over five thousand women in his harem.

But Shah Jehan’s wealth and glory crumbled to ashes in 1631. He stood devastated with grief at the bedside of his queen, Mumtaz Mahal, who having given birth to their fourteenth child, lay mortally ill. As the weeping Emperor caressed her hands and kissed her tenderly, Mumtaz whispered one last request: that her husband build for her the most beautiful tomb the world has ever known. Shah Jehan’s promise to his beloved queen is a monument that is as timeless and immortal as love itself.

This will guide one about the fact that the Taj took 22 years to build, cost approximately 32 million rupees and employed 20,000 workers. After it was completed, Shah Jehanreputedly blinded the Persian architect and the artisans, so that there would never be another building to equal it. The story also goes that the Emperor intended to build his own tomb, a contrasting black mausoleum, across the Jamuna River, both monuments to be linked by a silver bridge. However, he died before he could accomplish this, and his casket lies off centre, but beside that of his beloved Mumtaz in the main chamber of the Taj.

The Taj is so perfectly proportioned that when viewed from the entrance archway, it looks like a trinket that can be cupped in the palm of one hand. But as one gets closer, it is amazing to find that the platform on which it stands is as high as a single-storied building and the dome alone measures eighty feet in height.
Inside the main chamber, the tombs are enclosed within an exquisitely carved marble lattice screen. However these caskets are replicas; the actual tombs lie directly below them in a shadowed vault.

The tombs and the surrounding walls are covered in a profusion of pietra dura inlay designs: garlands of flowers, leafy tendrils and stems, all as finely detailed as paintings. One will be guided about how the shadow of the curl of each petal, each leaf has been worked in gradations of slivered lapis lazuli, jade, agate and carnelian. There is a collective intake of breath from our group, as he holds a flashlight against the milky marble, turning it translucent and glowing with color and texture.
Shah Jehan spent his declining years, enfeebled and imprisoned by his ruthless son, Aurangzeb in the massive Agra Fort.

In deference to his wishes, his apartments faced the Jamuna, which allowed the Emperor to gaze his last on the Taj Mahal shimmering like a pale mirage across the river an elegy to love, which poet Rabindranath Tagore epitomized as “one solitary tear [hanging] on the cheek of time.”

Agra, a few hours away from Delhi, is conveniently accessed by train, road and air. The city boasts a range of hotels and restaurants.

Las Vegas Budget Travel

2009-12-06T00:50:00.000-08:00

If it’s Tuesday this must be Paris. Or maybe Venice. But isn’tthat Bali and the South Seas we can see shimmering in the distance? Welcome to Las Vegas, where the world comes to gamble, and gamblers and tourists alike can, in turn, see the world. Or as much of it as fits into a hotel/casino complex. Nothing in this town is as constant as change, as evidenced by the three new hotels which opened between May and September.

Mandalay Bay, with its elephant fountains and sandy beach, was launched in March, while The Venetian, complete with canals and gondolas to ply them, welcomed its first visitors on May 3.

Wild Life Playgrounds of Miami Miami: A ‘Tropicool’ Hot Spot for the Hip and Romantic And the $760-million Paris Las Vegas, complete with a 50-story replica of the Eiffel Tower and two-thirds copy of L’Arc de Triomphe, introduced its C’est Bon attitude to the strip on Sept. 1, mere days before we arrived.
Eurosnobs may huff at this attempt to bring culture to the middle of an American desert, but this is as close to the real thing as some of us can afford to be. In fact, it is in the name of thriftiness that we have returned to the neon city. Las Vegas on the cheap, that’s what we’re here to find.
(All prices are in U.S. funds and may not include taxes. Prices were in effect when we were there, and are subject to change).
Free, no charge, gratis.

There is actually a wide range of free entertainment, from the Mutiny Bay Pirate Show outside Treasure Island (every 90 minutes from 4-10 p.m.) to the volcano eruption in the Mirage’s fountains (every 15 minutes from 6 p.m. to midnight). A popular attraction is the dancing waters in the lake outside the Bellagio (every 30 minutes Mon.-Fri. 3p.m.-midnight; Sat. & Sun. from noon).

The Bellagio also contains a wonderful conservatory, filled with flowers and plants, that undergoes a complete makeover several times a year.
Take a cab, or ride a bus, to the original downtown section, where two million light bulbs present The Fremont Street Experience, a series of six-minute shows shown on the top of the hour, starting at 7 p.m.
East of the Strip is the Rio, where the Masquerade Show in the Sky presents a 20-minute display of song, dance and music, plus aerial floats, every other hour from 2 p.m. to midnight. (More on this later).

The bad news is that there are eight million other people who want to seesomething for free as well. So hang onto your wallet, and find a football lineman to follow through the crowds.
There is no charge to walk through the MGM Grand Adventures Theme Park, as long as you’re content to stand and watch while others enjoy the rides. For the price of two quarters, however, you can create your own fun.
There are two water rides and they each have bombing stations where, for 50 cents, you have three chances to fire off depth charges that shower the riders just as they pass, unawares, in front of you. Once you get your timing, this soaking people to the skin is very addictive.
Less than $5 While you can just walk into the gift shop at the World of Coca-Cola, there is a $3.50 charge for the tour of the upper floors, which includes a small theatre playing a loop of Coke commercials.

The highlight is the chance to sample Coke products from around the world. You might want to stick with the Cherry Coke because there are some beverages here that should have their lead content displayed. So this is what kerosene tastes like.
Less than $10: A personal favorite is the indoor gondola ride at The Venetian ($9) where Bruno, who insists he’s been imported from Naples, operates the boat’s small engine with his foot while pretending to paddle, then serenades you with opera while turning the craft at the far end.
Pointing to a stretch of unused water stretching into darkness on the other side of the loading dock, Bruno explains that there is another 350 feet of the canal that is currently useless because someone forgot to make it wide enough at the end to turn the gondola around.
The Manhattan Express, at New York New York ($8 on weekdays), is a roller coaster with what’s described as a heartline twist. That means, with speeds in excess of 60 mph, your heart leaps in a straight line into your throat. Hang onto your glasses. And your lunch.
The view from the observation deck of the Eiffel Tower ($8) at Paris Las Vegas is spectacular, especially at night, when you can look down at the Bellagio water show from some 500 feet overhead.
For $9.95 you can be a player in the Masquerade Show at the Rio. After donning a costume, you’re buckled into a float that slides along a track on the ceiling. Your job description is simple: smile, wave, shake a maraca like you mean it.
Famished after a long day on your feet? May we recommend the best snack food in the civilized world. Krispy Kreme Doughnuts is located in the upstairs food fair at the Excalibur. Hint: Buy two dozen; the first batch won’t survive the trip back to your room. Less than $25 We once saw Siegfried and Roy make $180 disappear, and that was just for the admission tickets. Fortunately there is entertainment in Las Vegas that you won’t need a second mortgage to afford, especially at The Riviera, on the north end of The Strip, where we took in a pair of evening shows.
La Cage ($22.25, includes one drink) features female impersonators lip syncing to hits by, among others, Cher, Whoopi Goldberg and Celine Dion. The performers are introduced by Frank Marino as Joan Rivers, looking absolutely divine in Bob Mackie ensembles to kill for.
Crazy Girls ($19.25, includes one drink) attempts to mate art with a topless revue. Note to producers: Replace the fancy, muted lighting with skipping ropes. If the audience wanted culture, they’d be at the art gallery at the Bellagio.
Lions (MGM Grand), tigers (The Mirage) and bares. Oh my! But Las Vegas is a sight to behold. And just when you think you’ve seen it all, there comes word that the new Aladdin will open in 2000.

Rust never sleeps. Neither does Las Vegas.

A Journey through Time in Seville’s Jewish Quarter

2009-12-03T00:46:00.000-08:00

Wander the narrow, whitewashed alleys and let the history wash over you.

Five hundred years have passed in this southern Spanish city since the descendants of Abraham worshiped in the synagogues here but the area still bears their name. The Juderia, with its narrow, whitewashed alleys, tiled patios and homey outdoor cafes, has become one of the premier tourist attractions in all of Spain. No wonder. The Old Jewish Quarter throbs with history and with life.

If the ancient stone walls surrounding the quarter could speak, they would tell of the Arab conquest of Spain in 711 AD., of the 500 years of Moorish civilization until the Christian reconquest in the 13thcentury.

They would tell of Moses Maimonides, the renowned Jewish philosopher who walked these streets as did the Spanish artist, Murillo and the American author, Washington Irving who made his home here. They would point to the 16 th century convent built by the Christian mystic, St.Teresa of Avila and to the Church of St.Maria de Blanca, which now occupies one of the four main synagogues which once stood in the quarter. And, of course, they would tell of King Ferdinand’s and Queen Isabella’s shameful edict of 1492, banishing from Spain all Jews who would not convert to Christianity.

The Jewish Quarter of Seville, at one time, was entirely enclosed by the same massive walls as seen today. The gates were locked at night, allegedly for the Jew’s protection. One will notice the names of the streets as you meander through the quarter.

A pious Christian legend has it that Pimientia (Pepper Street) got its name from a pious Jewish spice merchant looking for a source of pepper. A Christian acquaintance told him to pray to Jesus. He did and a pepper tree grew there overnight.

Naturally, as the story goes, the Jewish merchant converted. Susona Street is named after a Jewish maiden who fell in love with a Gentile just prior to the Inquisition. Susona’s father was secretly involved in making plans to head off the Inquisition.

Susona told her lover about them and, as a result, many Jews lost their lives. Susona Street became the “street of death.” A skull and inscription to that effect is written on the wall above the street name.

Barcelona Spain Travel

2009-12-03T00:23:00.000-08:00

The city of Counts.

After a twenty-year revitalization project, culminating with the 1992 Summer Olympics, Barcelona shook off its reputation as a medieval relic and emerged as a world leader. Today, the city is not only a model for effective civic development; it's a magnet for tourists hungry for an eclectic mix of history and modern marvels.

The second-largest city in Spain, Barcelona has many distinct neighborhoods, each with its own flavor and charm. Be sure to visit:

Cuitat Vella - Three neighborhoods combine to create this historically rich area: Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), El Raval and La Ribera. With world-renowned cathedrals, a medieval palace, monuments, museums, fountains and the famous Bridge of Sighs, this is the heart of Barcelona. The impressively huge Plaça Catalunya is the ideal place to start your exploration.
Eixample - When the population outgrew its medieval walled city, Barcelona expanded in a radically different style. The modernista architects, including Gaudi, lined the streets with fantastical modern buildings like the famous but unfinished Church of La Sagrada Família.

Grácia - This charming village-like neighborhood still resonates with its industrial and artisan roots. Workshops, low-rise housing and several neighborhood squares give this region a sense of community not found in the city's center. Home to Barcelona's liveliest festivals, Grácia will give you a vivid glimpse of Spanish life.

Seaside - With small touring boats (golondrinas) and fishing vessels, this area entertains travelers onshore and off. Cruise the waterfront and then feast on seafood at one of the many seafood restaurants that line the harbor. At night the cinemas, discos and open-air music bars will keep you busy until the early the next morning.

Always popular with travelers, Barcelona offers a wide range of villas, hotels and other lodging options. With a constant supply of cheap flights from Britain, Spain is a favorite with the Brits, and the local understanding of the English language leans more towards U.K. phrases than North American. With this in mind, you might have more luck inquiring about "holiday apartments" than "vacation rentals" when making your travel plans.
Spain is a true tourist destination, hosting more than 50 million foreign visitors each year with Barcelona being at the centre of this tourism industry, boasting magnificent hotels, restaurants and nightlife. There is certainly no shortage of things to do in Barcelona, with all theannual events and sight seeing activities you’ll most likely have more problems trying to squeeze in siestas!

Travel France - St. Tropez

2009-12-03T00:01:00.000-08:00

St. Tropez is irresistible

ST TROPEZ - In the beginning there were the Greeks who brought the wheel, then the Romans arrived with their togas, and finally Brigitte Bardot, who never wore much at all.

The Brigitte Bardot story began where I am sitting now, on a sandy beach just west of St Tropez on the Mediterranean, the same place where the U.S. Army landed in 1944. If the troops had known what was to happen 11 years later they might not have dashed off the beach so quickly.
It was then that Brigitte Bardot came here to film And God Created Woman, and in the process put St Tropez on the map.

The film crew left another creation; a café which grew out of a beach cottage whose owner was asked to provide meals and seized the opportunity to start what is now an elegant operation - Club 55. Here the rich and occasionally famous arrive by yacht and exotic cars, rent a mat to lie in the sun, then enjoy languid lunches. At the end of the day, after a final glass of chilled Provence rose, not a few make their way back to the Byblos, the most glamorous hotel in what might be the most talked about place on earth.

Well, let’s say Europeans are fascinated by St Tropez because it is their Hollywood, a place where publicity-seeking celebrities in a yacht too large or a dress too small will pull the paparazzi. It is also the first stop for anyone who has made money, whether instant Internet millionaire or Russian gangster.
Even Lonely Planet , a guide not to be confused with the magazines favored by lowbrow dentists’ waiting rooms, cannot resist listing St Tropez residents past and present from Matisse to Marlene Dietrich, French rocker Johnny Hallyday, Joan Collins and Pink Floyd (As I reach for a peach/Slide a line down behind a sofa in San Tropez).

Fame has changed what was once a quiet little harbor lined with the simple homes of fishermen. Sumptuously big yachts have forced out the fishing boats, and owners and their guests dine on stern decks within spitting distance of crowds of gawkers on the quay. You have to be seriously rich and terminally stupid to bring a boat here.

Having said that, St Tropez is irresistible. The narrow streets are a maze of pastel-colored buildings sprinkled with shuttered windows. As you’d expect all the designer shops are here, but so are places where you can buy a fresh baguette or the local tarte Tropezienne, a wonderful sponge cake full of custard cream. The Tuesday and Saturday market at Place des Lices is one of the best in France.

The rest of the week and in the evenings Place des Lices reverts to being a shady square where men play petanque. If this is too energetic head for the port and a café such as Le Gorille and watch the passing parade. At night St Tropez’s restaurants overflow on to the sidewalks. This is the time to search for the best menu and the freshest seafood. First of all have a drink on the tiny balcony of the Hotel Sube overlooking the port. Here you can see the sidewalk artists putting the finishing touches to their paintings.

Dinner at the Hotel Byblos puts a strain on the budget but is a memorable experience. The courtyard of the hotel is quiet other than a piano in the background, the setting sun throws shadows over the pool and candlelight and flowers provide an overture to a Provencal feast.
An even better idea is to check in, and here it helps to be rich if not famous.
Exclusive might be the word for a hotel with just 50 rooms and 47 suites, all of them different, but nicely done to create a village within a village effect. The interior décor is striking and never dull; the exterior a mix of blues like the houses in the port as well as yellows and reds from Lombardy.

Service, as you might expect, is superb. The hotel can arrange golf at local courses, get you a table at its nightclub Les Caves du Roy, an experience not to be missed, and take you by private shuttle to Tahiti beach, where beach mats, a shelter from the sun and good food await. If you ask him nicely, the concierge could also rent you a yacht so you can cruise along the Riviera and arrive at Club 55 in style. Easiest way to get there is take British Airways daily non-stop flight from Vancouver to London, connect to Nice, and rent a car

Botswana Facts and Statistics

2009-12-02T23:54:00.000-08:00

Facts and statistics.

The population of Botswana is just over 1.6 million people. Botswana is named after its most prevalent ethnic group, the Tswana. Collectively, the people are known as Batswana; individuals are referred to as Motswana. Over 17 percent of the land in Botswana has been designated as a game reserve or national park.The ’80s hit movie The Gods Must Be Crazy was set in Botswana. Ditschwanelo is a premier documentary film festival centering on human rights that is held in Gaborone in March of every year.Gaborone is also the center for the Maitisong Performing Arts Festival every spring.

The people and their land
Botswana is considered the cradle of civilization by many. It’s here that the first evidence of modern Homo sapiens has been found. By holding tightly to their traditional past, incorporating the influence of their former British government and finding their own voice on the world stage as a newly independent nation, Botswana has become a country that knows its past and has a clear eye on the future.
The past
Much like the herds of animals that traverse the country following the rains and vegetation, the *first inhabitants of Botswana were travelers hoping to find a safe home for their families. The first farmers and herders sought out the best patches of land to start villages. Generations later, these same families would be driven away, fleeing tribal wars and the slave trade. Others struck out to make their fortune from the ivory and cattle trades. For most of its history, Botswana was a country on the move as its people worked to carve out a life in this difficult climate.
The present
Today, the Botswanan landscape plays as important a role as it did for those first people. The different regions of Botswana hold people with different goals. The flat, firm land is a place of prosperity where major cities and big businesses have bloomed. The sandier regions are home to those who enjoy the traditional way of life and live as their ancestors did. In the lush areas and vegetation-filled patches of the rest of the country, you’ll find tourist and safari lodges where residents of Botswana hope to share the beauty of their country with those who live a world away.

A blend of both
Botswana’s culture today is a healthy mix of the old and the new. Traditional crafts and status symbols are alive and well in an area that’s learning to adapt to Western influence. Popular forms of entertainment, such as music and dance, reflect the ways of life of those who came before, and popular European sports show the influence that British rule has had on the country.
Botswana is a country in a constant state of evolution. Come see how the past and the present blend together in this beautiful land.

Not your ordinary tourist suitcase
Remember to bring the following things along with you on your trip to Botswana:
Neutral-colored clothing to blend in with the environment (brown, gray, olive, khaki)BinocularsLots of film and batteries (or a 12-volt charger that you can hook up to a car charger port) for your cameraEducational gifts, such as books and art supplies, for the local people (especially children), to show consideration for the use of their land
Also remember to keep your bags under 26 pounds (12 kilograms) if you’ll be traveling on a light aircraft from point to point within Botswana and under 44 pounds (20 kilograms) for major-airline flights.

Be respectful. Before you take a photograph of any local person, ask their permission.Read up to make yourself familiar with the Botswanan climate, customs and culture in order to be best prepared and to reduce the chance of offending any Batswana.Buy local products and services to support Botswana’s economic initiatives (but be aware that some informal transportation is unreliable).Don’t waste water.Don’t litter.
Be aware

Sierra Nevada Mountains - Seize the Sierra

2009-12-02T23:44:00.000-08:00

The spectacular ‘Unfenced Gold Country'.

Think the best family vacations revolve around theme parks or resorts that take care of the kids? It's time to get outside and hook into some real family time. I guarantee your kids won't miss the roller coasters when faced with the natural wonders of Tuolumne County on the southwestern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As one of millions of visitors each year, I felt welcomed by the down-home comforts and the same air of adventure hopeful gold miners felt 150 years ago.

Known as “The Great Unfenced,” Tuolumne County encompasses several thousand square miles of wide-open wilderness, with elevations ranging from 1,400 feet in Jamestown to almost 10,000 feet at Sonora Pass. With fewer than 60,000 residents peppered across the sweeping landscape, it's one of the least populated (and most geographically beautiful) areas in California. Rolling grasslands, rising foothills and, of course, the majestic mountains of Yosemite make breathtaking vistas just another item on your daily agenda. I love that it doesn't matter what season you visit; there's fun for the whole family - for real.

What you will love most about Tuolumne County is that it doesn't fit neatly into one season. Even the most unimaginative can find something to do here year round, and if you're an outdoor adventurist, welcome to a world without limits.

Spring - The best time of year to pan for gold, spring is also one of the prettiest times to explore this part of the country. And since the ice has melted and the weather is stable, it's also the safest.

Summer - Yosemite steals the show in the summer, but don't stop there. Tuolumne has so much more to offer travelers.

Autumn - There's nothing finer than hot apple pie on a crisp autumn day. Throw in a ghost and a living museum, and you have the perfect autumn adventure.

Winter - Instead of flocking to a beach this winter, check out the pristine peaks in Tuolumne. You'll be hooked with your first visit.

Tuolumne County isn't what most people imagine when they think of California, but
it's all about exploring. A simple promise brought prospectors here originally, but that promise still lingers in the air, teasing and tempting. Are there things still worth discovering here? You will think so too, but maybe you should find out for yourself.

Quebec City Travel Guide

2009-12-02T23:30:00.000-08:00

A crouton of France in North America.

Quebec City burns bright as the flame of New France. Less modern and cosmopolitan than the province's largest city, Montreal, Quebec City's blend of history, culture, old-world architecture and general joie de vivre gives this city its inimitable charm. Erratic cobblestone roads wind round clusters of turn-of-the-century granite houses and distinctly French boutiques and chapels. Deep in the heart of the famous Quartier du Petit Champlain, a quick dash of the eye and you may feel you've been transported to a provincial village on the French coast - yet Quebec City is uniquely North American.

The only walled city north of Mexico, the old city of Vieux Québec has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. As the provincial capital, this city often finds itself in the hot seat over the debate of the province's stature in Canada. Quebec City has two national sports - hockey and politics - but not necessarily in that order. This prickly nature gives the mostly French-speaking population its edgy outlook people associate with the Québécois.
Surrounded by scenic squares such as Place Royale and Carré d'Youville, and exquisite views of the St. Lawrence and the Plains of Abraham, every inch of the old city from the the first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles to the Artillery Park Heritage Site is postcard perfect. Bring a great pair of shoes to walk the narrow streets of Vieux Québec and soak up the atmosphere for yourself.

Château Frontenac - Looming high above the north shore of the St. Lawrence River, Château Frontenac (built in 1893) has welcomed monarchs, held charged discussions between Winston Churchill and Franklin D. Roosevelt and in recent days has been a home away from home for Quebec's own pop royalty, Céline Dion. Bruce Price designed the building as one of Canadian Pacific Railway's château-type stations and hotels, as he did sister château Banff Springs Hotel, in Alberta. Costumed guides offer tours from May 1 to October 15 between 10:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. They'll not only give you a glimpse of the château, they'll give you a peek into the history of this fabulous city.

Montmorency Falls - Montmorency Falls, 7 miles (11 km) northeast of the old city, measure 98 feet tall (30m) - higher than the famed Niagara Falls in neighboring Ontario, though much narrower. A suspended bridge over the falls allows the brave a bird's eye view of this impressive natural beauty. In winter, the spray freezes to peaks as tall as the falls themselves. In summer, Montmorency hosts an international fireworks festival you can watch from the edge of the falls or from the comfort of a kayak.

Berea Kentucky - Postcard from Southeast Kentucky

2009-12-02T23:14:00.000-08:00

Battlefields and bourbon balls in the land of Daniel Boone.

Kentucky always conjures up images of the Derby, bluegrass music and the famous fried chicken from the Colonel, but small towns like Danville and Berea also hold some charming surprises - even for the outdoor enthusiast. Trek down the I-75 in Southeast Kentucky and see the Kentucky I saw recently.

Lending a Hand
Entering Berea, several large, ornate sculpted hand statues greet me. Lavishly designed, these five-foot-tall hands flank the Boone Tavern and lead visitors down the 595, part of the Daniel Boone Trail, to the Kentucky Artisan Center. Even more salute the town's Old Town Artisan Village and surrounding areas.
Belle Jackson, Executive Director of the Berea Tourist and Convention Commission, explained that Berea College operates on a mission of service to the Appalachian people. These beautiful hands symbolize the interdependent relationship the town and college share - serve with your hands. Constructed by a local kayak factory, resident artists decorated the hands. Their main intention was to highlight the opening of the Artisan Center, but the hands are now a cherished part of the landscape

Berea College
Eating up most of the downtown area, Berea College became, in 1855, the first interracial and co-ed college in the South. The college's founder, Reverend John Fee, began teaching on the nearby battlefield at Camp Nelson. Soon after the Civil War, he founded the college to promote understanding and acceptance among all the Appalachian people.
Berea College now offers free schooling to those who lack resources. In exchange for their education, students ‘labor' throughout the town, giving back in creative and exciting ways.

The Wettest Dry State
Friends warned me beforehand that much of Kentucky is dry. I'm not talking about the weather but rather where, when and how alcohol is sold and consumed.
For a dry region, I was surprised to find bundles of intoxicating items such as a brilliant orange beer cheese spread and bourbon balls (pecans soaked in bourbon then doused in milk chocolate). It soon became clear that Kentuckians looking for a swig have mastered the art of disguising their drink.
There are seven distilleries along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, where distillers such as Jim Beam have been perfecting their drink for more than 200 years. Maker's Mark allows visitors to dip a bottle into their special red sealing wax and personalize their liquor. Many of the distilleries are open Monday to Saturday but you can't dip on Sundays, and you must be 21 years old or older to participate.
The Kentucky Bourbon Trail begins in Louisville, where you'll find a complete listing of distilleries on the I-64 and I-65.

Airport Codes Explained

2009-12-02T22:47:00.000-08:00

Those letters on your baggage tag do mean something.

They might look like Swahili to you, but airport codes do mean something to baggage handlers. They should also mean something to you because it can save a lot of frustration if you understand the lingo before booking your flight.
Airport codes identify the thousands of airlines, aircraft, airports, locations and countries worldwide and the accounting codes for documents and goods that go between them.
The International Air Transport Association (IATA), the International Civil Aviation Authority (ICAA), the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) and the International Organization for Standardization (IOS) are collectively responsible for assigning these codes, of which there are a few main types:

Airline Codes (e.g., DL is the IATA's code for Delta)
Airport Codes (e.g., ORD is the IATA code for Chicago O'Hare)
Aircraft Codes (e.g., 320 is the IATA code for the Airbus A320)
Country Codes (e.g., US is the IOS country code for the United States)
Location Codes (e.g., GVA is the IATA code for Geneva; locations can also include bus stations, ferry ports, heliports and metropolitan areas, to name a few)

The most common codes that airline passengers might see are the airline, airport and aircraft codes. A passenger departing in Washington, D.C., might have AA, DCA and 744 on their baggage tag. That means they are flying with American Airlines, originating from Ronald Reagan Airport, on a Boeing 747-400 (passenger capacity).
The origin of airport and location codes - which can be quite confusing - can be traced to the National Weather Service (NWS) in the early part of the 20th century. The NWS used to tabulate data for cities and gave each one a two-letter identifier. So, when air travel exploded, existing airports put an X at the end of their identifier, hence LAX for Los Angeles International Airport. A government official then drafted the three-letter system we have in place today, which effectively gives 17,576 different combinations. This has further evolved to include four-digit identifiers with numbers in the code.

AIRPOT DOS AND DON'TS
The list of dos and don'ts concerning air travel and airports is an epic tome these days - and it gets longer with each incident. If you're a frequent flier, do yourself a favor and keep abreast of the myriad changes that airport authorities, airlines, police and security have implemented.

To illustrate the point, we've put together a catch-all list. You're welcome.

Dos

Pack with security screening in mind. While most regulations claim nail files are acceptable, it's not worth getting into an argument over and missing your flight. If in doubt, leave it out.

Leave early for the airport - some airlines suggest being at the airport three hours before a flight. It's your responsibility if you miss your flight - and your expense.

Take airport security seriously and heed the directions of screeners, airport officials and airline employees. Joking will likely land you in trouble - or cause you to miss your flight.

Put your valuables in your hand luggage before the screening point.
In-flight food is rarely free - and almost never nutritious - so bring your own healthy snacks. Also, it's a good idea to bring your own pillow, diversions and reading material.

Take advantage of speedy check-in services like online, curbside or self-service options.
Everyone tries to buy colorful luggage, but the best identifier is an ID tag and a bright ribbon that makes it stand out.

Request a bulkhead or an exit-row seat. These offer plenty of hard-to-get legroom.
Make your airline aware of any special needs (e.g., wheelchairs) you have so that they can accommodate them with ease.

Get travel (medical) insurance if you are flying out of the country - you never know when you'll need it.

Don'ts

Don't ever make jokes about bombs. Airport security will put a halt to your plans quickly for overt remarks.

Don't put locks on your checked luggage. Handlers will cut them off if your bags are flagged for a search.

Don't drink a lot of coffee or alcohol before a flight. It'll dehydrate you, and airline officials might not let you on the flight if you're drunk.

Don't leave your luggage alone at any time. Airport security considers all unattended bags a threat.

Don't wear restrictive clothing. Seats on modern aircraft are cramped, so those tight jeans will only feel tighter three hours into a long flight.

Don't refuse screening or a limited physical search. Security will not let you proceed if you do.

Don't forget to bring your documentation to the airport, especially a passport if you are flying internationally.

Disney World Vacation

2009-12-02T22:34:00.000-08:00

Fantasmic, grand-slam fun for kids and parents.

The niftiest part of a Disney vacation is breaking the everyday rules (like bedtimes) and having an all out kid-fest the entire time. If your vacation slogan is “Mickey Mouse or Bust,” we’re guessing that you have a large pair of mouse ears tucked under your bed from sixth grade – and let’s face it, Disney-run resorts were made with you in mind!

Magic Your Way
Besides free shuttles to and from theme parks, Disney sweetens the pot with perks for resort guests only:
Magic hours – It’s impossible to see everything in every resort, but an extra hour in the morning or evening can go a long way. Crowd control – Even on the busiest days, resort guests are never turned away at the gate. Hey, big spender – Got an armload of paraphernalia you couldn’t pass up? Send your purchases to your room at no extra charge – this lets you concentrate on the stuff that really matters: the rides.Your daily bread – Affordable meals and snacks can be a challenge in any theme park, but the dining option for resort guests can be a great place to save money.

Disney’s All-Star Sports, All-Star Music and All-Star Movies Resorts
These three properties consist of 35 separate buildings that offer distinctly themed rooms in bright Disney style. While each resort has a unique flavor, they all feature typically over-the-top decor geared to grabbing attention – and imagination. What’s better, this festival for your eyes doesn’t come with wallet-cramping prices.

All-Star Sports – Gigantic tennis rackets, baseball bats and football helmets tower over three-story motel-style guest rooms.All-Star Music – 40-foot guitars, saxophones and trumpets soar beyond the motels they adorn. There’s even a picture of Mickey Mouse posing with Alice Cooper and a pool shaped like a guitar.All-Star Movies – Gargantuan popcorn boxes and Disney stars from decades past stand guard over a star-shaped pool.
The All-Star resorts are Disney’s answer to budget travel, so be prepared for exceptionally small rooms, lack of full-service restaurants and a choice between parking lot vistas or poolside parties. Disney offers packages to students and large groups, so these hotels are hopping, with lots of activity at best and overrun with teenagers at worst.
If you’re traveling with kids:
Shuttle service – All-Star Sports guests are picked up and dropped off first, which can save a huge amount of time (and a few temper tantrums).Room selection – If you have young children, choose a first-floor room that opens onto the pool or playground.Off-hours movies – The All-Star Movies Resort plays Disney movies in the lobby for early risers who can’t wait to start the day.Meals – Food options within the resorts are cafeteria style, but McDonald’s is only a quarter mile away.
If you’re traveling with adults:
Privacy – Consider an upper-story room to minimize traffic outside your room. Be aware that spotlights aimed at the theme decorations at night will leave you seeing spots if you step on the patio in the evening, which can result in temporary blindness.Noise trade-offs – If you plan to return for an afternoon nap, a room that overlooks the parking lot rather than the pool might be a quieter option. Be aware that you may be sacrificing a good night’s sleep though, as people come and go at all hours.Best bet – If noise of any kind will offend, ask for a top-level room overlooking the forest. You’ll be further away from food, parking and shuttle service, but you’ll likely enjoy uninterrupted sleep.

All Star Resorts Rate Info:
Cancellation policy: 5 days prior to check in
Deposit required: First night within 30 days of booking
Price range: $75 - $140 USD standard room
Published discounts: Government

All-Star Resorts Facts
Accessed from Orlando International Airport (MCO)and Tampa International Airport (TPA)
Check in 3:00 p.m., check out 11:00 a.m.
Number of floors: 3
Number of rooms: 5760
Year built: 1994
Year of last renovation: 2006
All-Star Resorts Amenities
1 cafeteria style food court per resort
3 themed pools per resort, arcades and playgrounds
Currency exchange
Shuttle service to Disney theme parks
Wheelchair access
Air conditioning
Daily maid services
Iron
Telephone (voicemail)
Television
Basketball court
Beach
Boating / sailing / fishing
Golf course
Jogging track
Sand volleyball
Scuba diving
Shopping mall / area
Tennis
Water skiing

Marrakech Morocco, North Africa

2009-12-02T22:03:00.000-08:00

Casablanca and Beyond

A tall man with a weather beaten face, wearing a turban and a flowing ochre djellaba, is tending his small flock of sheep in a dry field delineated by a low stone wall. A painting of the scene could illustrate some ancient religious writings. But beyond the low wall lies the main runway of Casablanca International Airport from whence huge Boeings roar into the sky over the shepherd and his flock.

To say that a country is one of contrasts is a popular description for travel writers, yet this cliché is indeed apt and it is these contrasts which make Morocco so unique.
Morocco is a country of modern towns and medieval cities, of lush gardens and hot bustling streets, a land where the Rif and Atlas Mountains shield the temperate coastal region from the Sahara in the south, creating an exceptionally varied landscape and climate. Yet it’s not so very far from North America, and certainly not far from Europe, and its long popularity with Europeans has resulted in a stable tourism infrastructure.
This short trip will take you from the resort town of Agadir on the Atlantic coast, inland to the medieval walled town of Taroudant, then through the Atlas Mountains to exotic Marrakesh, and from there, briefly, to Casablanca.

Agadir is a popular beach destination for Europeans wishing to escape the winter and for Moroccans wanting a respite from the heat of their inland summers. It is a pleasant but unremarkable town that was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1960 and has since been rebuilt in a mish-mash of what might be called “Mediterranean styles”. Thus it is hardly a typical Moroccan town. Here, modern resorts and hotels face the golden Atlantic beach where men lead their camels against the backdrop of the setting sun.
An attractive hotel, more Moroccan in style than most, is the Al Madina Palace, set well above the main street a few blocks from the beach but with ocean views (Blvd. du 20 Aout, tel: 84-53 53). You won’t cross the Atlantic just to see Agadir, but it is a pleasant enough place to relax briefly after traveling. If you rent a car it is a good point from which to explore the southern coastal region and then the interior, where you will find the real Morocco. Taroudant is nearby and from there, the road crosses the foothills and then climbs through the Atlas mountains to Marrakech.
The ancient walled city of Taroudant is worth a visit, especially if you treat yourself to a stay in the charming Palais Salam Hotel where the city ramparts form part of the lovely gardens. Rooms start at Cdn. $80 but if you do pay more you may find yourself in a split level suite that will make you feel as though you are living in the Arabian Nights. (Tel: 85 21 30.)

In Marrakesh, along with its gardens, mosques, palaces and famous souk, you’ll find Djemma el Fna, surely one of the world’s greatest city squares where the uninitiated feel they’ve strayed into a film set. From early morning when the square acts as a market place, to evening, when the food stalls are erected, this is a place of a million sights, sounds and smells. Here gather medicine men and dentists, acrobats and jugglers, snake charmers and water carriers, weavers of spells and tellers of fortunes. And when you are tired of walking around you can sit in one of the nearby rooftop cafes and continue to watch the ever-changing scene beneath you as you sip your mint tea.
Then, of course, there is the souk, the permanent market of an estimated 10,000 small shops. Time is definitely needed, since the merchants expect and enjoy the haggling that should accompany any purchase. In the souk you’ll find herbs and spices, exotic jewelry, embroidered slippers, leather goods, copper, beautiful ceramics and of course, carpets. Here you’ll see makers of cauldrons, dyers of skeins, toolers of leather, traders of spices, and merchants of khol and Berber lipsticks.
Those venturing into the souk for the first time may want to take a government-licensed guide, which can be arranged at your hotel. Once you are used to this labyrinthine, you may be comfortable venturing on your own. Try not to become annoyed with the constant pressure you will receive to look and buy. Just firmly tell those who approach you that you're merely looking aorund. If you get lost, ask a local child, “Ou est la place?” and you will be escorted out to the main square in return for a few coins.
While in Marrakech try staying at the western-style Atlas Asni Hotel in the modern section of town (Av. de France, tel: 44 70 51). If your pockets are very deep, you might choose The Mamounia, regarded as one of the world’s great hotels. Possessing a colorful past, The Mamounia is featured prominently in Alfred Hitchcock’s The Man Who Knew Too Much , and its guests include Winston Churchill, who often stayed for months, painting in the gardens or on the nearby ramparts. (Av. Bab el Jdid, tel: 44 89 8. Even if you’re not an overnight guest, you can still soak in the architecture and lovely gardens by walking around or drinking mint tea or coffee at the hotel’s cafe.)
Eating places abound in Marrakech, from the stalls on the square to the nearby Restaurant Al Baraka which serves typical Moroccan cuisine in a lovely setting (tel: 44 23 41). Your hotel will have information on a trip out of town to the tourist attraction called Chez Ali, a palace turned restaurant with an arena where Berber horsemen display their skills. Yes it is touristy (with prices to match) but the food is authentic and succulent: spit-roasted lamb, the aromatic local stew known as tajine, couscous, and Morocco’s crowning culinary glory, the flaky concoction called bastilla, all accompanied by Moroccan wines.

Your stay in Casablanca might be brief, but you should be there long enough to be surprised. This is a modern, bustling city of wide boulevards, fast-moving traffic and luxury hotels. Here you'll see the recently completed Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest in the world and uniquely situated beside the pounding surf of the Atlantic Ocean.

Morocco is a peaceful Islamic country, proud of its tolerance and the fact that it is both ancient and modern. Driving in Morocco Car rentals are widely available from international and local companies; try bargaining. Main roads are generally fairly decent while roads through the mountains are not suitable for the fainthearted. Police often stop cars to check papers and count the occupants. Efficient train service links the major cities north of Marrakech.
Morocco —general Most Moroccans speak French as well as the official Arabic, but English is also widely spoken in major tourist areas. Take pens to give to children who seem to appear from nowhere whenever a tourist vehicle stops. Tips are expected for any small service, so keep change handy. Morocco is a good winter destination although spring and fall are the most popular with tourists. Avoid the heat of the summer months.
The atmosphere in Morocco will be different during Ramadan, during which no Moroccan customers will be found in restaurants during daylight hours but every evening becomes a celebration. Unlike other Muslim countries, Morocco observes the Monday to Friday work week. Many museums close on Tuesdays.

Egyptian Pharoahs - Mighty Works of Great Pharaoh Shine at Abu Simbel in Egypt

2009-12-02T21:47:00.000-08:00

The Greatness of Ancient Egypt

As one gaze upward at the four colossal statues of an ominous pharaoh, the words of English poet Percy Shelley echo in their mind: “My name is Ozymandius, King of Kings. Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!” Abu Simbel’s temples didn’t inspire Shelley to pen his poem about Ramses II - it was a toppled statue in Thebes - but they easily could have if he’d seen these imposing works.

This same mighty pharaoh carved the two immense temples out of rock in Egypt’s southernmost frontier 3,250 years ago, creating something so impressive that even today it epitomizes the greatness of ancient Egypt.
Most visitors catch their first glimpse of these two temples as their airplane dips towards the runway at the end of the 280-kilometre flight from Aswan. Even from this bird’s eye view, these temples - the Great Temple of Abu Simbel and the Temple of Hathor - are enough to make even jaded tomb raiders gasp.
Still, nothing compares to standing before them. Two pairs of 20-metre high statues of an enthroned Ramses II flank the entrance to the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, their stone visages gazing serenely across the Nubian landscape and beyond Lake Nasser’s lapping waters. The lake didn’t exist when these temples were originally carved into the mountain - it’s the 20th century by-product of damming the Nile at Aswan.
Abu Simbel’s temples are also newcomers. The original location of these treasures lies 200 meters south and 63 meters underwater. When rising waters threatened Abu Simbel in the 1960s, UNESCO co-coordinated a rescue effort. The temples were cut into 1,423 blocks, removed and reassembled on higher - and drier - land.

These temples aimed to impress neighboring Nubians of Egypt’s power and glory, and the strength of an egoistic pharaoh who demanded respect. Ramses II clearly dominates the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, even though this structure is dedicated to the sun god Ra-Harakhte.
Images deeply carved in the inside walls portray Ramses II first as a great king and victorious warrior, then as a servant to the gods, and finally, in the inner sanctuary, as a deity. This sanctuary is where four godly statues - including a deified Ramses II - await the “miracle of the sun.”
This ‘miracle’ would see the first rays of dawn strike the sanctuary on February 21, the pharaoh’s birthday, and October 21, his coronation date - briefly illuminating the godly statues save one: Ptah, god of darkness.

This astronomical precision crafted by the ancient Egyptians was something even modern technology couldn’t mimic. When the temple was relocated, the timing of these solar feats was thrown off by a day. The nearby Temple of Hathor was also built by Ramses II to honor Hathor, the goddess of love and music, and his Nubian wife Nefertari.
Even though Ramses II built this temple for his first and favorite wife, his image dominates its pylon-shaped façade. Of the six statues guarding the entrance to this temple, only two are Nefertari; the other four are Ramses II himself.
Nefertari’s beauty as a deified queen shines through, however. The images carved within her temple walls are more beautiful and creative than the militaristic battle scenes and stoic depictions in her husband’s dominating temple.
The highlight of Abu Simbel comes after sunset when the temples become a cinematic backdrop for an awe-inspiring sound and light show.
The mountain face becomes a giant projection screen as the story of Abu Simbel unfolds, recounting everything from the first stones laid by ancient Egyptians to the ambitious relocation three millennia later. Near the end, vivid images cast onto these sand-scrubbed temples eerily transform Abu Simbel into its ancient splendor, awarding modern-day visitors with a taste of the grandeur created by one of Egypt’s greatest pharaohs.
The spell of greatness Ramses II cast over ancient Egypt still lingers in Abu Simbel, where even beyond the grave his legacy still has the power to bewitch visitors in his enchanting grip.
Getting To Abu Simbel, Egypt Visitors can reach Abu Simbel by airplane from Cairo or Aswan in one of the daily charters, or by boat through a three-day cruise along Lake Nasser from Aswan. Entry fees include a guide. Student discounts are available.
Those interested in the sound and light show should either take a cruise or make independent travel arrangements and spend a night in one of Abu Simbel’s three hotels.

Barbados Tourism - Celebrate Crop over Festival

2009-12-01T04:25:00.000-08:00

Barbados will be bustling with cultural activities.

BRIDGETOWN, June 9, 1999 - Barbados will be bustling with cultural activities from June 27through August 2, when it celebrates the annual Crop Over Festival, the Island's most colorful event of the year. Visitors can join in during the five-week festival and enjoy exciting cultural festivities daily, with major events in the final week.

Crop Over '99 will be a time for Barbados to commemorate some of its most important historical milestones. Dating back to the eighteenth century, Crop Over historically marked the final reaping of the season's sugar cane harvest and is one of the oldest festivals in the Caribbean region. On completion of the harvest, Barbadian slaves channeled their energy into dancing, feasting and parading mule-drawn carts across the sugar plantations. In the 1940s, when the Barbadian sugar industry declined, the festival ceased. The tradition was revived in 1974 when Barbados reintroduced Crop Over and infused it with a new energy and spirit to celebrate the rich cultural traditions of this island nation. Today, Crop Over captures all the flavors of Barbados, with five weeks of parades, parties, craft markets, food festivals, concerts and other activities.
Crop Over Gala
Crop Over '99 will be formally launched on July 3 at the Crop Over Gala with the Decorated Cart and Float Parade, as well as a symbolic presentation of the last reaped sugar canes. The parade once exclusively featured donkey carts, while today it includes a great variety of vehicles from vintage cars to brightly decorated bicycles, vans and trucks. The processions are accompanied by indigenous Barbadian music, including calypso, Tuk bands and other local performance art. At the end of the parade route, an opening ceremony re-enacts the Delivery of the Last Canes - a symbolic link to the tradition of the original Crop Over Festival.

Fine Craft Exhibition and FestivalVisitors are invited to enjoy an arts and crafts fair held every Saturday between July 3 - July 24. The fair precedes the Fine Craft Exhibition, where local Bajan artists gather at the colorful setting of Queen's Park Gallery to exhibit their works. Shoppers may later purchase items at the Craft Market. The exhibition will be open to visitors from July 10 - August 2. Also scheduled is a three-day fine art and photography exhibition from June 27 – July 30 in the Grande Salle.

Bajan Culture Village
The centerpiece of Crop Over is the Bajan Culture Village, at King George V Memorial Park on July 17. The village features replicas of the island's signature chattel houses (colorful, transportable homes from the plantation era), crafts and food markets, and an assortment of typical Barbadian village games.

Folk and Gospel Music
Folk and gospel concerts held in recognition of the island's cultural and social development trace the history and evolution of "going to market." Performances will be held July 27 and 28 at the Sherbourne Conference Centre, Bridgetown.
Calypso Competitions
The Pic-O-De-Crop Calypso Competition, an integral part of Crop Over, brings together calypso hopefuls who will perform their best songs on July 25 at East Coast Road. On Friday, July 30, at the National Stadium, finalists will vie for the title of "Calypso Monarch" at the Pic-O-De-Crop Finals.

Bridgetown Market

On July 31, the Bridgetown Market will feature Bajan cuisine, indigenous arts and crafts, a steel band festival and a Tuk band competition. Tuk, an indigenous music form, features comically dressed minstrels playing a trio of rhythm instruments. Their repertoire begins with a slow waltz, shifts into a marching tune influenced by British military percussion and concludes with a frenzied African beat. The diversity of the Tuk bands' music is a vivid example of the amalgam of historical influences in Barbados.

Grand Kadooment
The grand finale of the Crop Over Festival is Grand Kadooment on August 2, a pageant where locals form groups representing themes of Barbadian life and dress in colorful masks and wild costumes before judges and spectators in the National Stadium. Local children host their own Junior Kadooment, held on Saturday, July 24, when they present the costumes and masks they have prepared over the year. Visitors can participate directly in Kadooment by joining one of the lively costume groups. After the parade, the celebration takes to the streets as spectators are invited to dance to the pulsating rhythms of the festival's best calypso and soca music. A spectacular firework display signals the end of the biggest party of the year, as well as the close of the five-week festival. For more information, contact the National Cultural Foundation at (246) 424-0907.